The Secret Hotels of Chicago

In Chicago, the true insiders are those who stay out of the loop

Conventions keep the central windy city hotels busy and expensive, so get the heck out of the business district.

Seneca Hotel & Suites occupies prime real estate: diagonally across from the high-end Water Tower shops and next to the landmark Hancock Tower. It has a 24-hour fitness center and three restaurants. And there's an employee whose sole job is to polish the extensive brass fittings. So why is this apartment hotel one of the least expensive places to stay in the neighborhood? Maybe because it's still somewhat unknown. The 17-floor building splits space between permanent residents--who pay up to $4,000 a month to live here in high style--and other guests, who rent spacious, fully equipped mini-residences by the night or the week. The rooms have no view to speak of, but they're stocked with cable TV, a dining area, a spa tub, and a kitchen with a full-size fridge, microwave, and, luxuriously, a dishwasher.

Reaching for the upscale, the 149-room Talbott Hotel (in the heart of the high-rent Gold Coast, two blocks west of the Seneca) caters to Magnificent Mile shoppers. Although the lobby's plaid wallpaper, fox-hunting bugles, and leather furniture portray an idealized notion of an English hunting lodge, rooms are less hokey, done in soothing crimson and forest green and big enough (360 square feet and up) for a family. The 1927 building contained apartments until 1986, and two years ago it was refitted with comforts such as two-sink bathrooms in granite and marble (with separate shower and bath). The rooms' thick carpets are so plush you could fall asleep on them. There's also free Wi-Fi, and guests are given passes to a gym several blocks north.

Few hotels at the north end of the Mag Mile have a view, but the Tremont Hotel, a block south of the Talbott, is an exception. No neighboring skyscrapers obstruct the sight of Michigan Avenue's shops, a half block away--which makes it easier to forgive the smallish size and lemon-lime color scheme of the 130 rooms. Large marble bathrooms and in-room stereo systems (ask for one) also elevate the Tremont, which is otherwise traditional and predictable. Extra points for former Bears coach Mike Ditka's popular restaurant and cigar lounge connected to the lobby.

As you'd expect in a place that cheerfully supplies free, fresh-baked cookies at the front desk--look for the chocolate-chocolate chip--the staff of the 160-room Claridge Hotel is uncommonly friendly. Rooms are beige in color and in spirit--nothing daring or lush, but comfortable. The oak-trimmed lobby bar is a cozy place to spend a few hours with some brandy on a chilly night, but going out is easy, too: The property is only a block and a half from the restaurants and nightlife of Rush Street, yet it is far enough away to be buffered from its noise. Ask for one of the front rooms, which face the lake.

In the heart of the entertainment trifecta in Lakeview--depending on the direction you take, a 10-minute walk can lead to the restaurants of Broadway, the wine bars and theaters of Halsted Avenue, or the people-watching at Lincoln Park--the four-story Willows Hotel, on a quiet residential street, could get away with charging more for its understated elegance. Beyond the proud, colonnaded lobby, the 55 salmon-and-mint-colored rooms, favored by business travelers who crave cheap but dignified quarters, are bright and appointed with terry-cloth robes. And, as if the hotel isn't enough of a secret, it's said to rest atop underground tunnels once used by former guest Al Capone.

Just up Lake Shore Drive, amid the funky shopping and entertainment on Belmont Avenue (and the Boys' Town gay district), lies the Majestic Hotel. Off the lobby of this onetime girls' prep school dorm, the wood-paneled Oxford Room draws neighbors who drop by for chats over free coffee. Standard rooms are on the small side; request one with a bay window since they're a little bigger. Or go for one of the huge suites, which cost about $25 more but include a microwave/fridge combo adequate for basic meals, and, just off the bedroom, a little sunroom that doubles as a TV area. This is the best choice for Cubbies fans--it's a five-minute walk east from historic Wrigley Field.

Broadcast journalist Andy Shaw, the local ABC station's political reporter, and his wife, Mary, run the old-school B&B known as the Windy City Urban Inn, near Lincoln Park, on the city's north side and within walking distance of the El's red line and the zoo. In sight of historic St. Clement Church, the 118-year-old mansion was converted into five rooms and three apartments, all named after famous Chicago authors (Studs Terkel, Saul Bellow, Gwendolyn Brooks) and filled with city memorabilia. Every room is different, but, interestingly (considering the proprietor's day job), most lack TVs. Guests share the sets in the common rooms, including the Ernest Hemingway lounge, as well as a kitchen. The best rooms are on the third floor: Airy, romantic, and loft-like, they sleep up to four and have skylights and spa tubs.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

— Anne Schweisguth
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Cruises
368324

We like to buy shipboard souvenirs, so we try to choose a ship that's completing its run of an area--that's when merchandise is generally put on sale. Last year, for example, on a sailing in South America, all of the T-shirts, glassware, and rain jackets were 75 percent off.

— Carol Callahan
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To ensure the studs of pierced and delicate earrings don't get damaged, I put them in a film canister. An added benefit is that they're less likely to be stolen when left in a suitcase or hotel room, because thieves presume there's nothing inside but film.

— Alison Taylor Fastov
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Air Travel
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Cruises
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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney
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If you wait to buy a discount-granting Entertainment Book until around six months before it expires (expiration is usually scheduled for November), you can often buy a $20 to $47 book for as little as $10, plus $5 shipping. Online access to the coupons is sold for $7 a month. These are great for vacations out of town.

— Kitty Bennett
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If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
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Hotels
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Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

— Rachele Helphill
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If the zipper on your luggage or your clothing is giving you any trouble, rubbing some lip balm or candle wax onto the teeth should loosen it.

— Marko Anderson
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If you're traveling with a companion, pack half of your belongings in his or her suitcase and vice versa. This way, if one piece of luggage gets lost, you'll each still have some clothing.

— Christina Costigan
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My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

— Nancy Bastian
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About a month before leaving on vacation, I start clipping the crossword puzzles from the daily newspaper and pasting them into a blank notebook. The puzzles keep me occupied during my trip. The newspaper's crosswords are so much more interesting than the generic books of them you can purchase at the airport.

— Kathie Meyer
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Safety
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Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

— Mainard Tom
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Loyalty Programs
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Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

— Ellen Worthing
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A padlocked zipper tells thieves there's something in your bag worth stealing, but a key ring is much less obvious. Just use it to latch together the zippers. Best of all, you'll never have to worry about forgetting your combination.

— France Freeman
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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

— Bill Serues
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After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
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We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

— Wendy Barr
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The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
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Using your frequent-flier miles, you might be able to visit two cities on one ticket. For example, my wife and I always trade in our Delta miles when we visit our daughters in Dallas and San Francisco. Because we have to fly through Dallas to get to San Francisco on Delta, we can stop over in Dallas for as long as we want before continuing on to San Francisco—and we use only one frequent-flier ticket each.

— Harry Bishop
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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Photography
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I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo
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Packing
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I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven

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