Cycling Switzerland

In planning 17 years of summer vacations on two wheels, Switzerland had never made it to the top of our list. Yes, it was scenically top-notch. But in our view it was lacking in other must-have attractions, such as the world-class cuisine we'd found in our repeated visits to Italy and France and other European, Canadian, and U.S. destinations. There was also, of course, the hill factor.

But since summer is the only time we can vacation and we needed some respite from the sweltering heat we had encountered in the last couple of years, the snowcapped mountains of Switzerland beckoned. Our expectations were low (except for the scenery); the reality was quite the opposite. And the cost was budget traveler's heaven, between $100 and $125 per day, including hotels, meals, and bicycle rental. If humbler accommodations are acceptable, you can do it for even less.

The pluses

Cycling in Switzerland exceeded our expectations. Our only regret was that we didn't spend more time there. For example, we should have planned some extra time in the Interlaken area. One or two days of hiking would have enriched our experience.

In addition, we were surprised by the quality of the bicycle paths. The trail markers were excellent and ever-present-bright-red road signs with a pale-blue square that displayed the route number in white. Rarely were we on a road with automobiles. It was extremely difficult to get lost, although we did manage to do so once or twice. The maps in our guidebook included locations of bike repair shops and "i" locations (information centers), so help was never far away.

A major decision is whether or not to bring your bicycles. This was easy for us because the Swiss Federal Railways rent excellent bicycles for about $20 a day. They are 24-speed hybrids, and the entire fleet is sold and replaced each year so they are in near-mint condition. And they can be picked up at your train station of choice, then dropped off at any other station.

Our rental bikes were trouble-free, but if we had had problems, we could have exchanged them for different bikes at the next railroad station.

Picking a route

First we had to solve the "problem" that we are not mountain bikers, and we were going to the Alps. Our solution: to follow a river downstream, which, of course, means predominantly downhill.

We turned to the Internet for help and found cycling-in-switzerland.ch, an invaluable resource. We were astonished to find that there are nine Swiss bike-path routes, covering 3,300 kilometers. We chose route number 8, the Aare River in the Bernese Alps. The Aare flows from its glacier lake source on the Grimsel Pass to its confluence with the Rhine at Koblenz, and we planned to start at the high end. This did not eliminate some serious climbs, but the overall direction was down. We also liked the idea of taking the train from ZYrich and letting it do the climbing to our starting point, Meiringen.

A day in ZYrich at either end with six 40-mile days on bikes seemed about right for our eight days in Europe.

Finding accommodations The Cycling in Switzerland Web site suggests some places to stay. Click on "Eating/Sleeping" and then "Partner List." Select your route number and choose a category ranging from "Hotels" or "Bed-and-Breakfasts" to "Sleeping in Straw." You also may select a price range. (The current exchange is US72> to 1 Swiss franc.)

We looked at Swiss Budget Hotels and Minotel and decided to try the latter. Minotel (minotel.ch) is a nonprofit association of approximately 700 privately owned hotels in Europe, 95 percent of which are managed by proprietor families. Most of their hotels are three stars; all have private baths and a restaurant in the building. What sold us was that we could bike without carrying our belongings because Minotel hotels (at least in Switzerland) will deliver your luggage to the next hotel. Drop it off at the front desk by 9:30 a.m. and Minotel guarantees that it will be at your next destination by 5:30 p.m. (And for us, in every case, it was there by 5:30, often earlier.)

Our accommodations varied in charm, but all were acceptable and had friendly and helpful owners.

If you don't want to make reservations in advance, you can always choose establishments en route that have the "Cycling in Switzerland" seal of quality prominently displayed at the entrance. There you can count on "cycling friendly" service, including a safe, locked location f or your bicycle, some bicycle tools, laundry facilities or at least a place to hang your hand-washed items, and good cycling advice.

Finally, we ordered the Veloland Schweiz guidebook for route number 8 (25 Swiss francs-about $18). Currently the books are available in German and French, but the only thing you really need is their maps, and you can read maps no matter what your language. To order the guidebook, log on to cycling-in-switzerland.ch.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Hotels
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Cruises
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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney
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Safety
420308

If you're a woman traveling alone, or your accommodations don't inspire confidence, simply wedge a small rubber doorstop at the base of the door when you're inside the room. It'll be virtually impossible to open the door from the outside.

— Kimberly Milne-Fowler
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Cruises
396308

If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
345250

The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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Packing
337286

I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Technology
401294

My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

— Florence McGinn
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Loyalty Programs
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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

— Jonelle Niffenegger
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Packing
343291

I find that hotel bathrooms rarely have enough hangers and hooks for clothes and wet towels, so I always bring a few snap-lock suction hooks. (They function better than regular suction hooks because they're more secure and are therefore able to hold heavier items.) It's always nice to have a place to hang a bathrobe.

— Laura Tillman
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Planning
357253

Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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Technology
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Don't put your magnetic sunglass clip-ons in the same pocket as your mass transit fare cards or hotel key cards. I managed to erase both my subway pass and my hotel key on a recent trip.

— Jim Tichenor
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Air Travel
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As a flight attendant, I'm always amazed by the stuff that people leave behind. Most of it never gets back to its rightful owner because there's no way of knowing who the owner is. To avoid misplacing your property, put things back into your carry-on after using them--never on the floor or in the seat-back pocket. Label important items like books or games with return address labels so they can be sent back to you if found.

— Doug Hummell
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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr
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Packing
357277

Instead of bringing one of those bungee cables to hang-dry my delicates and socks, I pack a couple of mini plastic hangers--the ones that bras and panties come on when you buy them. They take up very little room in my luggage and can be thrown away at the end of the trip.

— Monica Pileggi
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Air Travel
345269

Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
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Transportation
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I prefer laminated city maps because I can circle all the things I want to see in a given day with a dark erasable marker. Once I have everything marked, I plan my route and start walking. The next day, I erase the previous day's marks and begin all over again.

— Sandy Hughes
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Hotels
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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Safety
425292

A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

— Rusty Cartmill
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Planning
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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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Packing
436607

I started saving the heavy-duty plastic wrappers that sheets and curtains come in. Most have zippers or snaps, great to hold everything from toiletries to shoes to wet swimsuits. And I bet airport security must love them because they're see-through.

— Terry Schmieder
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Packing
376243

My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins
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Planning
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I've discovered a wonderful way to enjoy massages at a fraction of the usual cost. Some massage-training schools provide superb service in a spa-type environment. Do a Google search to see if there are training programs near your next vacation destination.

— Karen Gardiner
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Hotels
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I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

— Louisa Elder
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Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

— Rami Aboumahadi
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A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Packing
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Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Family Travel
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When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
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Cruises
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Most cruise lines offer certain drinks for free--juice, lemonade, iced tea, coffee, milk, tea-but you'll have to pay for soda. If you're a caffeine addict, pack a bottle or two. Unlike on a plane, you won't have to worry about paying for the added weight.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Packing
341289

Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
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Safety
426319

I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held

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