Cycling Switzerland

In planning 17 years of summer vacations on two wheels, Switzerland had never made it to the top of our list. Yes, it was scenically top-notch. But in our view it was lacking in other must-have attractions, such as the world-class cuisine we'd found in our repeated visits to Italy and France and other European, Canadian, and U.S. destinations. There was also, of course, the hill factor.

But since summer is the only time we can vacation and we needed some respite from the sweltering heat we had encountered in the last couple of years, the snowcapped mountains of Switzerland beckoned. Our expectations were low (except for the scenery); the reality was quite the opposite. And the cost was budget traveler's heaven, between $100 and $125 per day, including hotels, meals, and bicycle rental. If humbler accommodations are acceptable, you can do it for even less.

The pluses

Cycling in Switzerland exceeded our expectations. Our only regret was that we didn't spend more time there. For example, we should have planned some extra time in the Interlaken area. One or two days of hiking would have enriched our experience.

In addition, we were surprised by the quality of the bicycle paths. The trail markers were excellent and ever-present-bright-red road signs with a pale-blue square that displayed the route number in white. Rarely were we on a road with automobiles. It was extremely difficult to get lost, although we did manage to do so once or twice. The maps in our guidebook included locations of bike repair shops and "i" locations (information centers), so help was never far away.

A major decision is whether or not to bring your bicycles. This was easy for us because the Swiss Federal Railways rent excellent bicycles for about $20 a day. They are 24-speed hybrids, and the entire fleet is sold and replaced each year so they are in near-mint condition. And they can be picked up at your train station of choice, then dropped off at any other station.

Our rental bikes were trouble-free, but if we had had problems, we could have exchanged them for different bikes at the next railroad station.

Picking a route

First we had to solve the "problem" that we are not mountain bikers, and we were going to the Alps. Our solution: to follow a river downstream, which, of course, means predominantly downhill.

We turned to the Internet for help and found cycling-in-switzerland.ch, an invaluable resource. We were astonished to find that there are nine Swiss bike-path routes, covering 3,300 kilometers. We chose route number 8, the Aare River in the Bernese Alps. The Aare flows from its glacier lake source on the Grimsel Pass to its confluence with the Rhine at Koblenz, and we planned to start at the high end. This did not eliminate some serious climbs, but the overall direction was down. We also liked the idea of taking the train from ZYrich and letting it do the climbing to our starting point, Meiringen.

A day in ZYrich at either end with six 40-mile days on bikes seemed about right for our eight days in Europe.

Finding accommodations The Cycling in Switzerland Web site suggests some places to stay. Click on "Eating/Sleeping" and then "Partner List." Select your route number and choose a category ranging from "Hotels" or "Bed-and-Breakfasts" to "Sleeping in Straw." You also may select a price range. (The current exchange is US72> to 1 Swiss franc.)

We looked at Swiss Budget Hotels and Minotel and decided to try the latter. Minotel (minotel.ch) is a nonprofit association of approximately 700 privately owned hotels in Europe, 95 percent of which are managed by proprietor families. Most of their hotels are three stars; all have private baths and a restaurant in the building. What sold us was that we could bike without carrying our belongings because Minotel hotels (at least in Switzerland) will deliver your luggage to the next hotel. Drop it off at the front desk by 9:30 a.m. and Minotel guarantees that it will be at your next destination by 5:30 p.m. (And for us, in every case, it was there by 5:30, often earlier.)

Our accommodations varied in charm, but all were acceptable and had friendly and helpful owners.

If you don't want to make reservations in advance, you can always choose establishments en route that have the "Cycling in Switzerland" seal of quality prominently displayed at the entrance. There you can count on "cycling friendly" service, including a safe, locked location f or your bicycle, some bicycle tools, laundry facilities or at least a place to hang your hand-washed items, and good cycling advice.

Finally, we ordered the Veloland Schweiz guidebook for route number 8 (25 Swiss francs-about $18). Currently the books are available in German and French, but the only thing you really need is their maps, and you can read maps no matter what your language. To order the guidebook, log on to cycling-in-switzerland.ch.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Hotels
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If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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Technology
412278

Booking condos last minute can yield incredible bargains, and there's a way to maximize savings while minimizing the risk that you won't find a room at all. ("Last minute" generally means a month or less before your stay; seven-day deals usually start on a Saturday.) Buy your plane ticket and book a refundable hotel room you can use in case you can't find that bargain condo. Then, a month or so before your trip, start looking at last-minute sites—lastminutetravel.com, site59.com, etc. If you find a deal, simply get a refund on the hotel room and pay the cancellation fee, if there happens to be one. Using this technique, I found a great beachfront, one-bedroom condo on Maui—and I saved about $300.

— Joan Chyun
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Planning
355267

Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

— Parisa Montazeri
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Planning
357253

Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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Packing
342257

My husband and I are retired, and we take two trips abroad each year. When unpacking, I put items we use repeatedly on each trip (flashlight, alarm clock, travel-size toiletries, etc.) into a box and keep it stored near the suitcases. No more searching or trying to remember if I've got everything for the next journey—it's all in one place.

— Mary Meikle
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Shopping
366251

When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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Packing
352255

Batteries for cameras, laptops, cell phones, and other devices can be charged at night in your hotel room. But if you're doing a lot of driving, you might want to buy an inverter to charge them while on the road. Inverters (which plug into the car's cigarette lighter) are small, inexpensive, and can be purchased at auto-supply, variety, or electronics stores.

— Kay Euhus
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Planning
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Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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Technology
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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Packing
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In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

— Erica Rounsefell
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Family Travel
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Ever since my children were small, I've carried recent, wallet-size pictures of them when we all go on vacation, in case we get separated. Now that they are teenagers and traveling with friends' families, too, I send pictures for the other family to bring along with them. I also write my telephone numbers on the back of the pictures so they know where to reach me in an emergency.

— Ruth Ann Newsum
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Safety
426308

Traveling to non-English-speaking countries can be daunting for people with food allergies. Find someone fluent in the local language to write out what you are allergic to, the seriousness of the allergy (we had a friend include the phrase "this could kill me"), and what to do if you fall ill.

— M. Thompson and K.A. Fares Bannon
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If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

— Donna Johnson
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Before booking your next ski trip or reserving a table for dinner, find out what your credit card company has to offer. American Express sometimes has discounts on lift tickets; MasterCard has offered buy-one-get-one-free at local restaurants; and Discover Card has access to deals to Universal Studios. Check out americanexpress.com/offerzone, mastercard.com (be sure to click on Promotions), and discovercard.com.

— Connie A. Yu
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Hotels
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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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Shopping
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
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Technology
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Before traveling to any city, do a search on the Internet of the city name and the word "coupon" ("New Orleans coupon"). You will find many sites offering two-for-one, percentage-off, and dollar-off discounts. On a recent trip to St.Louis, we saved $100 at restaurants and attractions.

— Carolyn J. Kubacki
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Car Rentals
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When booking a rental car online, click on "special offers" or "hot deals" to find the company's current promotional codes. Price your reservation using each code. Also, keep in mind that rates fluctuate according to seasons and slow periods. I managed to save more than $170 on a ten-day rental in Orlando, Fla.,by changing my reservation dates twice and by using different codes.

— Jeff Thomsen
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Packing
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When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

— Keely McNerney
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Air Travel
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Air Travel
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Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
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Transportation
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Read the fine print on your rail pass. You can often use it to save money on other modes of public transportation. With a Scandinavian rail pass, for example, you'll pay less to ride the ferries. In Switzerland, a rail pass can get you free bus rides, as well as complimentary entrance to museums and discounts on funiculars and hotel accommodations.

— Jessica Lees
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Technology
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I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

— Florence McGinn
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I've always traveled with a mini sewing kit in case I needed to sew on a loose button (or replace one).Now when I buy clothes, I just barely touch the end of a tube of Krazy Glue to the front of my buttons. Because they're covered by the glue, the threads don't fray as easily. No more lost buttons!

— Calvin Girvin
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Safety
411300

I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
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Planning
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We're active travelers but find guided bike tours from companies like Backroads too expensive. Our advice: After rolling into town, ask at a bike shop for the best routes. Better yet, call or e-mail before you leave home (search the Web). We've found group rides and races this way, and have made a lot of friends. We're instant locals!

— Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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Packing
389274

When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

— Haley Christensen
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Photography
368274

I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo

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