Day one: Vancouver to Kamloops, 215 miles

At Hope, a gold rush town barely two hours out of Vancouver on the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1), the scenic show begins. For the next 65 miles to Lytton, the roadway clings to a precarious ledge above the Fraser River as it races, splashing and foaming, through a narrow canyon. Ice-topped peaks tower overhead. Canadians regard this twisty stretch, tunneling repeatedly through rock walls, one of the Trans-Canada's' most challenging. Stop at Alexandria Bridge, where the highway crosses the Fraser, to get a good look at the canyon upriver and down. Just beyond at Hell's Gate, the narrowest part of the gorge, take a Hell's Gate Airtram (adults, $8.48 U.S./$11 C) 500 feet down the cliff side to the river's edge for the views and a Visitor Center lesson in salmon lore.

The little town of Lytton, where the Thompson River joins the Fraser, claims to be Canada's river rafting capital. Here Highway 1 leaves the Fraser and follows the Thompson past the former fur trading post of Cache Creek and on to the crossroads city of Kamloops. En route, the terrain levels and the highway enters a high desert country of grasslands, sagebrush and cactus. The region's fur trading past is detailed at the Kamloops Museum (donation requested). Just north of town, picnic and swim in the warmish (really) lake at Paul Lake Provincial Park (no charge).

Details

Stay in Kamloops. You'll find the cheapest rates at the 75-bed Hostelling International Hostel (250/828-7991), $15.63 U.S./$20.28 C per bunk for non-members; private rooms, $37-$83 U.S./$47-$108 C for up to five people. Elsewhere, try the 36-room Alpine Motel (800/270-1260), $61 U.S./$79 C; the 68-room City Center Travelodge (250/372-8202), $71 U.S./$92 C; or the 203-room Best Western Kamloops Towne (800/665-6674), $116 U.S./$150 C. Dine at the ABC Country Restaurant; a full homespun country meal featuring Salisbury steak, potatoes, a vegetable and roll comes only to about $7 U.S./$8.99 C. The Hostelling crowd favors Peter's Pasta for its similarly cheap fare and hefty portions. For information: Kamloops Visitor Information Center, 888/526-5667, venturekamloops.com/.

Day two: Kamloops to Banff, 305 miles

Expect a long, but gorgeous day of mountain sightseeing as Highway 1 continues east through four national parks: Mt Revelstoke, Glacier, Yoho and Banff. I suggest quickly covering the first 130 miles from Kamloops to Revelstoke, which is where the most dramatic views begin. Out of Revelstoke, keep watch for fields of summer wildflowers as the road traces glacier-spawned Illecillewaet River. Glacier ice drapes the granite peaks high above. In Mount Revelstoke, take a short hike on the Giant Cedars Interpretive Trail, a forest path that provides insights into the ecology of the park's lush, wet woodlands. In Yoho, detour five miles north to aptly named Emerald Lake, one of the country's most photographed gems. Paddle a rental canoe to enjoy it up close. At Spiral Tunnels, take in the Yoho Valley views while pondering the task of building a railroad through these daunting ranges. For now, skip Lake Louise (we'll be back) and continue on to the resort city of Banff for the night.

Details

Stay in Banff. Budget choice is the quite spiffy 216-bed Banff International Hostel (403/762-4122), $21.60 U.S./$28 C per bed for non-members; $49-$55 U.S./$64-$72 C for a private room for two. Elsewhere, check into the 52-room Red Carpet Inn (800/563-4609), $96 U.S./$125 C; the Banff Voyager Inn (403/762-3301), $104 U.S./$135 C; the 27-room Homestead Inn (800/661-1021), $107 U.S./$139 C; the 21-room King Edward Hotel (800/663-3126), $84 U.S./$109 C; 65-room Irwin's Mountain Inn (800/661-1721), $90 U.S./$145 C and the 70-room High Country Inn (800/661-1244), $120 U.S./$155 C. Dine at the newly refurbished Bruno's Café. Tops on the menu is the Canadian maple-glazed salmon plate, $11.57 U.S./$15 C.

For a less urban setting, stay at (unfortunately) pricer Lake Louise, 35 miles north. Two options are the 150-bed Lake Louise International Hostel (403/522-2200), $21.60 U.S./$ 28 C per bunk for non-members; $64 U.S./$83 C for a private room for two; and the 232-room Lake Louise Inn (800/661-9237), $122 U.S./ $159 C. For information: Banff-Lake Louise Visitor Information Center, 403/762-8421, banfflakelouise.com/.

Well-priced bed-and-breakfast lodgings in Banff and Jasper (see below) can be booked though Canada West Accommodations (800/561-3223). Rates range from $73-$135 U.S./$95-$175 C, including breakfast.

Day three: A free day to relax and explore the Banff area