The Middle East in New York City

Hookah bars, hummus meccas, and great Middle Eastern art make New York City an exotic, affordable place to live out all of your Arabian Nights fantasies

Perhaps you've always wanted to sail down the Nile, or drink tea with a carpet trader in Fez. Or maybe you dream of camel rides through the Sahara, laced with lazy evenings at lush oases. Whatever fantasies you harbor about that spectacular trip to the Middle East, chances are they've been on hold for the past couple of years.

But that doesn't mean you should miss out on everything the region has to offer. More than 150,000 immigrants of Egyptian, Palestinian, Lebanese, Moroccan and other origins live in New York, making up one of the country's most vibrant Arab communities. In just one short weekend here, you can fill up on Syrian sweets, dance to live Algerian rai, smoke an Egyptian hookah and have enough money left to buy a Turkish trinket or two for the folks back home.

Heavenly hummus, plate loads of pita

The best way to start a Middle Eastern weekend in New York is with a delicious breakfast at Mogador Cafe, a Moroccan fixture popular with a hip, bohemian crowd. Mogador's big draw is a superb $9.95 prix fixe brunch, but I prefer a plate of perfection modestly labeled Middle Eastern eggs ($6.50): two eggs cooked any style served with creamy hummus; tangy tabouleh made with bulgur, parsley and tomatoes; chopped salad; and pita sprinkled with olive oil and thyme. (Mogador Cafe, 101 Saint Marks Place. 212-677-2226).

For dinner, try Moustache, a casual Arabic eatery considered by many to be the best of its kind in Manhattan. Moustache's hot, fluffy pita works as a delightful scoop for their mezzeh appetizers such as smoky babaganoush ($4.50) or lentil salad ($4.50). Their entrees are mouthwatering too; try the baby lamb ribs, served juicy and tender with salad on the side ($13). Prepare for a long line at the West Village branch. (Moustache: 265 East 10th Street. 212-228-2022 / 90 Bedford Street. 212-229-2220)

Just a few blocks away, the same owners have introduced a slightly more upscale Middle Eastern experience to the neighborhood. Named after a dynasty of former Turkish slaves who ruled Egypt from the 13th to 16th centuries, Mamlouk lavishes diners with a $30 six course meal. Let yourself be transported by the Arabic fusion tunes and a tasteful decor of lanterns, cushions and tiles, and be sure to book a table in advance because there are only two seatings per night. (Mamlouk 211 East 4th Street. 212-529-3477)

An abundance of art

The biggest thrill of any trip to the Middle East comes from its legacy as the so-called "cradle of civilization." Settled for more than five millennia by nations whose scientific and architectural achievements continue to baffle today, the region boasts a spectacular wealth of tradition and culture not to be missed.

The best spot in New York to catch a glimpse of this old splendor is the Metropolitan Museum of Art (suggested donation $12), which houses one of the world's largest Ancient Egyptian collections. While there's no Pyramid to pose in front of here, the dazzling display of jewelry, mummies and paintings takes you to the same magical world inhabited by gods and Pharaohs thousands of years ago. You can even stroll through the Temple of Dendur, a 2,000-year old ruin which has been perfectly perserved in an especially built extension overlooking Central Park.

For a more recent example of Middle Eastern art, check out the Met's intricately decorated Nur al-Din Room. Plucked from a wealthy Syrian home in the 1700's, it boasts ornate wooden panels decorated with gilded Koranic inscriptions, and a beautiful colored marble floor. (Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1000 Fifth Avenue. 212-535-7710)

If it's contemporary art you're after, make a call to Alwan. One the most active Arab cultural venues in town, Alwan puts on several shows a week at its modest facilities in the financial district, featuring anything from traditional music concerts to poetry readings and photography exhibits .Admission usually costs $20 or less and you're almost guaranteed to catch some pretty good artists. (Alwan, 16 Beaver Street. 646-473-0991)

Arabian nights

Middle Eastern nightlife in New York revolves around three key elements: live music-much of it fusion jazz or modern rai (an infectious kind of rock developed by North African immigrants in France), hookahs (water pipes used for smoking fruit-flavored tobacco), and belly dancing.

Tagine, a Moroccan restaurant with a lousy kitchen and a great bar, books some excellent bands and belly dancers. Friday and Saturday nights are packed, so call ahead.(Tagine Dining Gallery: 537 9th Avenue, 212-564-7292, $15 cover most nights.)

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

— Glenda McMurray
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There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

— Christopher Swain
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Recycle the long plastic bags in which you receive your home-delivered newspapers. Slip your shoes into the bags before packing them in your suitcase.

— Robert E. Jones
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We're active travelers but find guided bike tours from companies like Backroads too expensive. Our advice: After rolling into town, ask at a bike shop for the best routes. Better yet, call or e-mail before you leave home (search the Web). We've found group rides and races this way, and have made a lot of friends. We're instant locals!

— Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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Priceline was a total pig in a poke for me, so I never used the web site, until I found out about biddingfortravel.com. This helpful Web site gives potential bidders an idea of prices that are being accepted (and declined) on priceline.com for particular dates and properties (or airfares or car rentals). I got the Hyatt Regency Miami for $35 per night because of this!

— C. Sue Mecham
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Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

— Parisa Montazeri
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Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

— Joan Nikelsky
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Lightweight, washable, and multifunctional, a cotton sarong is an easy and practical addition to every traveler's don't-leave-home-without-it bag! I've used mine as a swimsuit cover-up, as a picnic blanket on the grounds of a château in the Loire Valley, as a temporary skirt (over my shorts) in a Bangkok temple, and as an extra pillow while hiking the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It's also handy as an airplane blanket, emergency towel, or tablecloth.

— Nicole Serafica
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Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

— Marc Oppy
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

— Jamie Thomas
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Some international airlines still give passengers a goody bag that includes a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks for the flight. Keep those socks: They're handy when visiting temples in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, where you must remove your shoes before entering. I slipped on the socks and my feet stayed both clean and warm!

— Nancy Easterbrook
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Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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I've discovered a wonderful way to enjoy massages at a fraction of the usual cost. Some massage-training schools provide superb service in a spa-type environment. Do a Google search to see if there are training programs near your next vacation destination.

— Karen Gardiner
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Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
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Every summer, we drive out West from Pennsylvania with our two kids. To avoid that infamous road trip question ("Are we there yet?"), I give each child a map with our route highlighted on it. Along the way, they can match up the town names with road signs we pass, and that way, they always know exactly where we are and how much farther we have to go until we'll get there.

— Machelle McCoy
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Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

— Ed Wilhite
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It's easy to lose track of time in a windowless interior cabin. Before going to sleep, tune into the ship's bridge-camera channel for real-time videos of the front (or bow) of the boat. The screen will act like a virtual porthole, and you'll rise and shine with the sunrise.

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If you start to feel a painful blister coming on, put some lip balm or Vaseline on the hot spot--it'll help stop the rubbing.

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Pack a couple of mountaineering carabiners. Clip one through the handle or strap of your bag and secure it to something solid wherever you may be (to a bench in the park or in a train station, to the railing of an overhead compartment on a bus, etc.).The carabiner adds a bit of security, especially if you're snoozing.

— R. Bryan Simon
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Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

— Tamara Johnson
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We all know to avoid drinking tap water in certain countries, but remember to forgo ice cubes, too. I've started bringing along two ice trays, which I fill with bottled water and freeze in my hotel room's mini-fridge.

— Christa Babel
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My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran

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