Set at 7,000 feet at the base of the pi-on- and juniper-clad Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Santa Fe is one of this country's prettiest cities, and yet it looks absolutely foreign-a blend of Pueblo adobe, old Mexico, and the Frontier West. You can wander the meandering streets for hours (and for free), absorbing the wonderful architectural details. Look for lovely, hand-carved wood doors, graceful arched gateways, tiled fountains, and color-filled flower gardens tucked behind pink adobe walls.

Spend what's left of your first day exploring the bustling, gallery-lined streets around the Palace of the Governors, which overlooks the Santa Fe Plaza. Built by the Spanish in 1610, the elegantly simple Palace is believed to be the oldest building in the country in continuous public use. Once it housed the Spanish governor; now it is a museum of Southwestern history (105 W. Palace Ave., 505/476-5100; $7 adults, children under 16 free). Dozens of tribal members sell their crafts daily from beneath its portal. Handmade pottery can be pricey, but we recently bought a delightful little bowl from a Jemez Pueblo potter for just $40. By law, crafts sold under the portal must be authentic.

End the day with d inner on the plaza at the lively Plaza Restaurant (54 Lincoln Ave., 505/982-1664), a favorite with budget-minded locals and tourists since 1918. New Mexican dishes, such as the cashew-and-mole enchilada plate ($9.95), are the tasty draw.

Details

From the Albuquerque airport, take I-40 west to the Acoma Pueblo. Return to Albuquerque via I-40 and connect to I-25 north to Santa Fe. Stay about a ten-minute drive from the Plaza at the 96-room Super 8 (3358 Cerrillos Rd., 505/471-8811), $61; or the 104-room Motel 6 (3007 Cerrillos Rd., 505/473-1380), $50 weekdays, $60 weekends. Information 800/777-2489, santafe.org.

Day two: A world of art

But first, check out the major museums. Near the plaza, a must for O'Keeffe fans is the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum (217 Johnson St., 505/946-1000; $8 adults, children under 17 free), America's first museum dedicated to the work of a woman artist. You will see some of her most famous works, including Jimson Weed, a white blossom that fills the canvas. My favorite museum, though, is the fun-filled Museum of International Folk Art (710 Camino Lejo, 505/476-1200; $7 adults, children under 17 free) on Museum Hill, a short drive from the plaza. The world's largest collection of folk objects, it features a colorful miniature Mexican village-cathedral, train station, marketplace, and dozens of little townsfolk-all crafted by noted potters. Take the youngsters to this one.

Near the plaza, save at least an hour for a stroll up Canyon Road and its dazzling array of outdoor sculpture. End the day with dinner at the Cowgirl Hall of Fame (319 S. Guadalupe St., 505/982-2565), a down-home barbecue place with plenty of Southwestern spice. The bourbon-splashed salmon plate is $9.95.

Day three: O'Keeffe country

Out of your price range? Mine, too, but you'll find small pieces by other, less prestigious San Ildefonso potters for under $100. Even if you don't buy, you can me et them in their workshops, which in most cases is in their home, and watch them at work. First pay the parking fee at the visitors center (505/455-3549; $3 per car), and then pick up a map for a walking tour. You are welcome to enter any home or shop with a "Pottery-Open" sign on the front. You will be treated like a guest.

Then it's back in the car and on to the Anasazi ruins and caves at Bandelier National Monument ($10 per car). They are set deep in narrow Frijoles Canyon, which is cut by a burbling mountain stream. You'll clutch the steering wheel as the road suddenly drops over a high ledge into the canyon. A mile-long trail traces the base of the cliff, where Pueblo-style wooden ladders provide somewhat tricky access to the caves. At some points, the route edges between rock walls so narrow you momentarily have to suck in your stomach and twist your hips to slip through.

As you head now for the little village of Abiquiu to tour O'Keeffe's winter home (505/685-4539, ad vance reservations required; $22 per person), you are likely to spot views that you saw in her paintings hanging in the Santa Fe museum. The Pedernal, a lofty mesa shaped like a ship's smokestack, is instantly recognizable. On the hour-long tour of the modest adobe, the sensation is much the same. The guide stops at a courtyard door, holding up photos of O'Keeffe's impressionistic renderings of this very door. A few steps away, a jimson weed bush displays its exuberant white blooms; perhaps it was the model for the museum's Jimson Weed. And those elk horns on the wall look familiar.