In summer, O'Keeffe moved 12 miles north to Ghost Ranch, once a guest ranch and now a church-run conference center set on 21,000 wilderness acres. Currently the summer home-owned by the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum-is not open to visitors. But you are invited to drive onto the ranch for a look at the white cliffs and other landscape features O'Keeffe painted. We recently bought a picnic lunch at the Ab iquiu General Store and ate at the ranch under a shady cottonwood.

From Ghost Ranch, take the northern route through Tierra Amarilla to Taos. The winding, empty road cuts across Carson (as in Kit Carson) National Forest, climbing high into the mountains for a spectacular view of the sheer Brazos Cliffs. And then it drops back down onto the desert plateau, where it takes a giant leap across the 650-foot-deep Rio Grande Gorge, a mini Grand Canyon, just outside Taos.

Details

From Santa Fe, take U.S. 285 north. Just south of Espanola, pick up Route 502 east to San Ildefonso. To continue to Bandelier, take Route 502 to Route 4 south, following the signs. To Abiquiu, follow the signs back to Espanola via Routes 4, 502, and 30, connecting to U.S. 84 north. To Ghost Ranch and Taos, continue north on U.S. 84 to U.S. 64 east. Stay in Taos at the 37-room Days Inn (1333 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 505/758-2230), $60; the 50-room Super 8 (1347 S. Santa Fe Rd., 505/758-1088), $62; or the 60-ro om, close-in El Pueblo Lodge (412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 800/433-9612), $69. Dine just off the plaza at Michael's Kitchen (304 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 505/758-4178), a local hang-out oozing Taos style. The enchilada plate, $8.65. Information 800/732-8267, taosguide.com.

Day four: Frontier flavor

Begin the day with a visit to Taos Pueblo, three miles north of town (505/758-1028; $10 adults, children under 13 free). Tu cked at the foot of 12,282-foot Taos Mountain, the pueblo's two five-story adobe structures-the finest examples of Pueblo architecture anywhere-are believed to date back at least to 1450. Without plumbing or electricity, they remain home to about 150 people. A guide escorts you on a short tour of the grounds; afterward, you can get a peek inside the ancient condominiums by visiting the pottery and other crafts shops on the first floor.

If you visit only one Taos museum, make it the Ernest L. Blumenschein Home and Museum near the plaza (222 Ledoux St., 505/758-0505; $5 adults, $3 children ages 6 to 16). Blumenschein was one of the creators in 1915 of the Taos Society of Artists, a group that began the flow of artists to New Mexico. The adobe home, rooms of which date back to 1731, is fascinating itself as an example of the territorial style. Its walls are hung with examples of the society's paintings-many of them highlighting the same scenes you still see today on Taos streets . The one gallery not to miss is the neighboring Navajo Gallery (210 Ledoux St., 505/758-3250) owned by Navajo artist R.C. Gorman, Taos's most famous and successful artist. His brightly colored canvases of tribal women in traditional dress sell for tens of thousands of dollars.

Make the San Francisco de Asis Church (505/758-2754; $3 adults, children under 12 free) the final stop before heading back to Albuquerque. Located four miles southwest of Taos in Ranchos de Taos, the old adobe church is the subject of countless paintings-the most prominent of which, of course, is one by O'Keeffe. She was awed by its beauty, as I've been, and you will be, too.

Details

From Ranchos de Taos, take the scenic High Road through mountains and meadows back to Santa Fe and Albuquerque. Follow Routes 518 and 76 to Espanola, connecting to U.S. 84/285 and I-25 south. Stay in Albuquerque at the 243-room Super 8 Midtown (2500 University Blvd. NE, 505/888-4884), $50; or the 109-room Motel 6 Coors Road West (5701 Iliff Rd. NW, 505/831-8888, $50. Information 800/284-2282, itsatrip.org.