Wild and watery Amsterdam has long been a magnet for folks eager to live it up (sometimes light it up) in the town where almost anything goes. Others arrive to inhale the rich culture-to gaze at Van Goghs and Vermeers, cruise the historic canals, gorge on Gouda at the source, or-in the spring-visit the huge, yearly flower shows. And since the notoriously frugal locals just love to pinch their euros (E), food and drink bargains abound, affordable hotel rooms aren't hard to come by, and if you're game for bopping around town by bike (a very Dutch way to go), you can conquer this cool cosmopolitan village and still have change to spare. (Note: When calling Amsterdam from the U.S., first dial 011-31-20.) Also, at press time, E1 equaled about 98¢. Nice Package! Air/hotel combos are sometimes the cheapest way to get to Europe. Go-today.com (book online) regularly features round-trip airfare from many U.S. cities and three nights in a hotel from as low as $399 per person for two in winter and $499 in summer. IMTC-Pegasus (404/240-0949, imtc-travel.com) offers airfare plus three nights at a three-star hotel for $599 per person in winter and $845 for two nights from June to August. In April, typical rates from Icelandair (800/223-5500, icelandair.com) begin at $599 for two nights' hotel and airfare from several U.S. gateways.

Local Intelligence

Before leaving home, get briefed at 900/400-4040, 900/551-2512, holland.com/amsterdam/gb, goholland.com, or timeout.com. Once here, pick up the free What's On in Amsterdam at a VVV Tourism Information office. There's one across from Centraal Station, another in the station on Platform 2, a third in the Leidseplein square, and yet another at Schiphol Airport. Free at many shops and cafes, the pocket-size "iN 2 Amsterdam" has cool recommendations for food, drink, and fun. Available at bookstores and at the AUB ticket office at Leidseplein 26, the giveaway flier/magazine Shark has a more alternative focus (it's also online at underwateramsterdam.com).

Schiphol play

Getting into town from Amsterdam's well-designed airport couldn't be simpler: From the central hub of the airport's shopping plaza, trains leave every 15 minutes or less for the 15- to 20-minute ride into Centraal Station. Tickets are E2.95 ($2.90) one way, E5.22 ($5.10) round trip; you can also buy a strippenkaart here (E5.67/$5.55), good for seven rides on all public transportation in Holland's major cities. For E7.95 ($7.80), the KLM bus, open to everybody, will drop you off at one of six downtown locations near major hotels; it runs regularly from 7 a.m. till 9:30 p.m.

The snoozing Dutchman

Quite a few smart little hotels right in the city center offer style and comfort at bargain rates. Overlooking the Singel canal, the family-run, eight-room Hotel Brouwer (Singel 83, 624-6358, fax 520-6264, hotelbrouwer.nl; no credit cards) feels like a slice of Vermeer; doubles (all with canal views) start at E80 ($78). In downtown's Negen Straatjes area is the ten-room Hotel Belga (Hartenstraat 8, 624-9080, fax 623-6862), with fine basic doubles with bath for E77 ($75). Tucked away in the Jordaan, the Hotel Acacia (Lindengracht 251, 622-1460, fax 638-0748, hotelacacia.nl) is a friendly little sliver of a spot that also offers nice rooms on its own houseboat; breakfast-included double rates are E80 to E110 ($78-$108) on the houseboat. In the (perfectly safe!) Red Light District, the cool Hotel Winston (Warmoesstraat 129, 623-1380, fax 639-2308, winston.nl) houses a rock club and has 67 rooms, many designed by different artists; doubles start at E71 ($69). On the scenic Prinsengracht canal, doubles with private bath begin at E80 ($78) or without at E60 ($59) at the charming 11-room Hotel Prinsenhof (Prinsengracht 810, 623-1772, fax 638-3368, xs4all. nl/~prinshof). You'll find a younger, hostel-like atmosphere at the Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (Kerkstraat 136-138, 622-0687, fax 638-2060, hans-brinker.com), where bunks start at E21 ($20) and doubles at E29 ($28). An easy bike ride from the center of town, the hip Hotel Arena (s-Graves-andestraat 51, 850-2410, fax 850-2415, hotelarena.nl) has 121 rooms decorated in an airy, minimalist style, and doubles from E102 ($100); also on the premises are a cafe/bar and a live-music venue. You may also book your hotel rooms via the tourist office's Amsterdam Reservation Center (reservations@amsterdamtourist.nl) for E2.72 ($2.65).

Street nibbles

Amsterdam also has plenty of cheap street eats. Given the large Middle Eastern population, falafel stands are plentiful and often very good. Try one of the Maoz Falafel branches, where E2.72 ($2.65) buys freshly deep-fried balls of mashed chickpeas served in a pita with lettuce and a wide assortment of sauces and toppings (Muntplein 1, across from the Mint clock tower; Reguliersbreestraat 45, right off the Rembrandtplein; Leidsestraat 85, off Leidseplein). Patates frites (french fries, with mayonnaise or curry sauce) are popular, and the best in town are sold daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the take-out window of the Vlaamse Friethuis (Voetboogstraat 33); the small size is E1.36 ($1.30), two can share the medium for E1.70 ($1.65), and sauce is E.45 (44¢). To really go Dutch, get fresh Hollandse Nieuwe haring ("new Dutch herring") at street stands throughout the city. Two reliable vendors of this marinated delicacy, served on a roll with onion and relish for about E1.58 ($1.55), are found on the Westermarkt (beneath the Westerkerk) and on the Koningsplein (by the flower market).

Basic brown

One of the most traditional ways to drink and eat in Holland is at one of the city's charming, classic, candlelit bruine kroegen ("brown cafes"), whose pub grub is basic but often quite good. One of the best in town is Het Molenpad (Prinsengracht 653, 625-9680), where entrees top out at about E11.80 ($11.55). Head to locally popular Moeder's Pot (Vinkenstraat 119, 623-7643), in the Jordaan, for hearty Dutch fare with entrees from E3.85 ($3.70). De Prins (Prinsengracht 124, 624-9382) is cheery, popular, and known for good food, jovial crowds, and a canalside terrace; main courses begin at around E11 ($10.75). Finally, head to the tiny Cafe Gollem (Raamsteeg 4, 626-6645) to sample any of over 200 Dutch and Belgian beers from a couple of bucks a pop.

Classic noshes