20 Secret Bargains of London

Insider tips on how to save cold cash in Cool Britannia's red-hot capital

There's just nothing in the world like my hometown - the architecture, the colorful street life, the even more colorful nightlife, the rainbow of eccentric and fairly friendly inhabitants, and better dining than at any time in its history (no cracks, please). Sadly, Cool Britannia has earned another nickname courtesy of our local tabloids: "Rip-off Britain." But the truth is that especially away from the touristy downtown areas, London doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. If you aren't afraid to take the bus, the train, the tube, or to arm yourself with a street map and walk, you can dig up some brilliant bargains in exciting places. (To call London from the United States, first dial 011-44-20. From within the U.K., first dial 020 for London; for other cities, dial 0 before the city code.)

Notes from the Underground

No question, the best way to get around is the weekly Travelcard (you'll need a passport photo to get one), which covers the Underground (the world's most extensive subway system), those red double-decker buses, and British Rail trains - especially good for navigating the further reaches of town. If you plan to explore only central London, buy a Zone One unlimited travel pass for £15.30 ($22.25); other passes cover up to six zones (£35.40/$51.50), but four will get you pretty much anywhere you'd want to go except Heathrow. The cards are available at all train and tube stations and tourist offices. There's also a transport advice line (7222-1234) to help you get exactly where you want to go.

Tips on the Thames

Get started even before you leave the States, by visiting the vast londontown.com (which also has special offers on lodging and events) or calling the British Tourist Authority at 877/899-8931 for a free info pack; ask for the brochures Where to Stay on a Budget 2001 and the London Planner. Once over here, there's lots of useful help at the London Tourist Board's main information center at Victoria train station (whose tube station has the same name) and the Britain Visitor Centre at 1 Regent Street: mostly leaflets, booking services for tours and bus trips, and accommodation services. The weekly Time Out (£1.95/$2.85) still runs the top listings guide, but several newspapers now publish their own; the best is "Hot Tickets," free with the Evening Standard (35p/50cents) on Thursdays. The free morning newspaper Metro (available at tube stations) also has listings for that day.

Cafe society

Remember the scruffy local eatery that features prominently on the Brit soap EastEnders? (You can frequently find the series stateside on public TV.) Colloquially known as "caffs," these cafes are the English version of diners - a real blue-collar experience, with simple food and sometimes gruff service. Here, they close at 6 p.m. and are beloved by construction workers and celebs alike. An all-day breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, and toast hovers around the £3 ($4.35) mark; make sure you try some "bubble and squeak" (fried mashed potatoes and cabbage, very tasty local delicacy) with your brekkie. I recommend Mike's Cafe (12 Blenheim Cres., Notting Hill, W11; tube: Notting Hill or Ladbroke Grove), Borough Cafe (11 Park St., around the corner from Borough Market, SE1; tube/train: London Bridge), Dishes Cafe (23 Cromwell Rd., near the Natural History Museum, SW7; tube/train: South Kensington), and Mario's Cafe (6 Kelly St., near Camden Market, NW1; tube: Kentish Town/Camden).

Dorm-a-rama

Even cheaper lodging options? Try university residence halls, which offer a bed and a full English breakfast in clean, simple twins with a washbasin in the room, and shared bath, kitchen, and TV facilities during vacation periods (generally mid-April and mid-June through September) in very central locations. Best picks: the beautiful Wellington Hall (71 Vincent Sq., SW1; 7834-4740, tube: Victoria) with twin rooms at £42 ($61), breakfast included; Great Dover Apartments (165 Great Dover St., SE1; 7407-0068, tube: Borough) has twin rooms with private bath (or, as the English refer to it, "en suite") at £47 ($68). Both of the above are available through King's Conference and Vacation Bureau (7848-1700), vac.bureau@kcl.ac.uk. Wigram House (84-99 Ashley Gardens, SW1, 7911-5796, comserv@westminster.ac.uk; tube/train: Victoria), with twins from £48 ($70.50), about 20 percent more for ages 27 and over. Year-round, the London Hostels Association (7828-3263) has a roster of ten centrally located, pleasantly sedate - i.e. not full of boozy Aussies - hostels with weekly double rates from o88 ($128) per person (usually breakfast and dinner included). The rock-bottom option is Tent City Acton (Old Oak Common Ln., W3, 8376-3432, tentcity@btinternet.com, home.fastnet.co.uk/iandavey; tube: East Acton), open June to September, with beds in big dorm-style tents from o6 per person ($8.75).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Hotels
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Packing
350261

Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

— Lori Fields
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Packing
339262

Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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Technology
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To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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Packing
343244

Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle
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Air Travel
364248

On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Loyalty Programs
363253

After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Air Travel
362270

When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Road Trips
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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Technology
375285

When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
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Planning
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We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Planning
354263

If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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Packing
364284

When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

— Ellen Worthing
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Safety
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Our bags have been stolen twice from inside locked rental cars. Now we travel with a bicycle cable and lock. If we absolutely have to leave our suitcases in the car, I hook them together by the handles and attach the whole thing to the frame of a seat or a secure item in the trunk. Even if thieves manage to get into our car, the cable will make it very difficult for them to make off with the luggage.

— Karen McCarty
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Air Travel
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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Planning
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When on vacation, I split my cash into envelopes, one per day, so I can keep track of how much I'm spending. If I need to dig into the next day's cash, I'll know that I've overdone it, and if I want to stay on budget, I'll have to cut back the next day. Any money left at the end of the day goes into a separate envelope. I've actually come home with money this way!

— Wendy L. Phiel
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Transportation
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In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
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Hotels
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If you take an overnight flight to Europe and early check-in at your hotel isn't an option, ask the concierge if you can store your luggage until later in the day and use the hotel gym's shower. You'll be refreshed and ready for sightseeing. Pack toiletries and a change of clothes in your carry-on.

— Brian Huseman
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Transportation
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Cruises
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Packing
377288

Once the hotel shampoo bottles I always seem to bring home are empty, I refill them with my own brand of shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel--instead of buying travel-size containers at the drugstore. I toss them, along with other small items (toothbrush, toothpaste, nail file, pillboxes, and a comb), into a medium-size Ziploc bag, and I'm ready to go; the clear plastic lets me find things easily.

— Donna Cover
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Photography
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Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

— Michael Gray
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Packing
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If the zipper on your luggage or your clothing is giving you any trouble, rubbing some lip balm or candle wax onto the teeth should loosen it.

— Marko Anderson
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Transportation
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A bike tour will offer a good introduction to a place, and you'll cover much more ground than if you were on foot. In Buenos Aires, for example, Lan & Kramer Bike Tours (biketours.com.ar) has a few guided itineraries that are fun for all ages and abilities.

— Meda Florin
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Planning
350241

Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
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Shopping
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
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Packing
344256

Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

— Kathryn Murphy
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Packing
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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
Tagged
Hotels
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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

— Karen Hartz
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Technology
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Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

— Perry Babel

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