TRIP COACH

A Month in New Zealand With No Set Plans

A couple wants to see the country's dramatic landscapes, Maori culture, and...penguins and Art Deco architecture?

Milford Sound, one of the world's wonders (David Wall / Tourism New Zealand)

What you'll find in this story: New Zealand travel, New Zealand transportation, New Zealand attractions, New Zealand culture, New Zealand destinations, New Zealand sites

Six years ago, Jeff and Linda Lowe sold their home in Santa Barbara, Calif., quit their jobs, and relocated to Kailua, Oahu. They live off a few rental properties they own, spend a lot of time at the beach, and travel as much as they can. "Our latest trip was a last-minute, 28-day cruise around South America," said Linda, who is 53, like her husband. "We fell in love with Chile and the Patagonia region, especially the penguins."

In mid-February, the couple is starting an adventure that'll make nine-to-fivers even more jealous: They're off to New Zealand and Australia for five weeks, and they asked us to help plan the trip--specifically in New Zealand, where they'll be for most of their vacation. "We'd like to see as much as possible," Linda wrote to us.

The first thing we did was talk the Lowes out of a 12-day cruise from Auckland to Sydney, because it would be difficult to spend all that time at sea and still see everything they wanted to on land. A regional upstart airline, Pacific Blue, has flights from Christchurch, on New Zealand's South Island, to Melbourne, for $154.

The Lowes are starting off in Auckland, on the North Island, and working their way south in a rental car. We told them that making hotel reservations more than a day in advance is rarely necessary. Two essentials: a detailed road map (bought locally at any bookstore) and a reliable accommodations guide from the country's automobile association (available for free at almost every hotel in the country).

Jeff and Linda were curious about a festival happening February 17 to 20 in Napier, in the Hawkes Bay region. After an earthquake destroyed Napier in 1931, the city was rebuilt in the pastel colors and art deco style popular at the time--giving Napier its claim to fame and the genesis of the annual Brebner Print Art Deco Weekend. Everyone dresses up in vintage suits, top hats, and flapper dresses for jazz concerts, dances, and a big Great Gatsby Picnic. No need to bring along costumes, we told the Lowes; a couple of stores in town rent 1930s-style clothing for $3.50 and up.

"We're interested in the cultural similarities between the native peoples of New Zealand, Australia, and Hawaii and want to meet some of the Maori," said Linda. On the drive from Auckland to Napier, the Lowes are planning on a stop in Rotorua. The city is known for two main reasons--a third of the population is Maori, and it is near one of the most volcanically active areas in the world. A good place to learn about both is the Whakarewarewa thermal village, where the entrance price includes a guided tour of the village, access to its mud pools and hot thermal lakes, and a performance of traditional Maori song and dance. In Wellington--the capital, and the country's best all-around town--the Te Papa Tongarewa Museum is a must. Admission is free, and there are Maori sailing vessels, a marae (traditional meeting place), and hundreds of native artifacts.

From Wellington, the Lowes will board a three-hour ferry and then spend about three weeks on the South Island. After several days of leisurely driving down the coast, it's time to meet with some of Jeff and Linda's favorite creatures. A colony of blue penguins puts on a nightly show at Oamaru, three hours south of Christchurch. Returning from an industrious day of fishing just after dusk, the birds hop along adorably from rock to rock, back to their nests, while a crowd views from a respectful distance.

Another two hours south, at Dunedin (duh-nee-din), the Lowes are detouring east out onto the Otago Peninsula. Near the end of the road is the Royal Albatross Centre, where, with a little luck, they'll see a few of the giant birds. Most people turn around here, but we directed the Lowes to the Natures Wonders Naturally tour, at a sheep farm on the ocean's edge. Visitors ride on ultrarugged eight-wheel ATVs while the driver occasionally spins 360's in the mud, and there are chances to get up-close views of penguins and baby fur seals along the coast.

"Stewart Island seems interesting, though we don't know much about it," said Linda. The third largest of New Zealand's isles, where nearly 85 percent of the land is a national park, is home to a few hundred full-time residents. We advised the Lowes to take the ferry over from Bluff. The South Sea Hotel, which has quiet units with kitchenettes behind the main building, is a short walk from the wharf. We told the Lowes to look into a guided tour of the bird sanctuary on nearby Ulva Island, run by a Maori woman named after the island.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

Tagged
Packing
366266

Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

— Meredith McCulloch
Tagged
Planning
367246

Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

— John Nechman
Tagged
Packing
354288

On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
Tagged
Family Travel
526568

At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
Tagged
Family Travel
364250

When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
Tagged
Planning
345267

I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

— Brigitte Emick
Tagged
Dining
338260

I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

— Charles Locher
Tagged
Hotels
411310

Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

— Joan Nikelsky
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Hotels
437334

If you take an overnight flight to Europe and early check-in at your hotel isn't an option, ask the concierge if you can store your luggage until later in the day and use the hotel gym's shower. You'll be refreshed and ready for sightseeing. Pack toiletries and a change of clothes in your carry-on.

— Brian Huseman
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Family Travel
364278

Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
Tagged
Hotels
432326

Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Hotels
409329

Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes to seal them together.

— Elisabeth Joyce
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Cruises
456584

Don't assume you can save a spot at the pool with your towel. Cruise lines give you one pool towel at the start of the cruise. If you don't have it (or a cleaned trade-in) at the end, you'll get charged. If you let it out of your sight, you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen by a fellow cruiser.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Family Travel
361276

Ever since my children were small, I've carried recent, wallet-size pictures of them when we all go on vacation, in case we get separated. Now that they are teenagers and traveling with friends' families, too, I send pictures for the other family to bring along with them. I also write my telephone numbers on the back of the pictures so they know where to reach me in an emergency.

— Ruth Ann Newsum
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Air Travel
371259

Try to book the first flight out in the morning, because those planes often arrive at the airport the evening before. You won't have to rely on an incoming plane, which could be delayed or canceled due to bad weather elsewhere, resulting in your own flight being delayed or canceled.

— George Glover
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Cruises
358317

If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Hotels
410352

Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Hotels
415309

I was heading to the hotel ice machine when I noticed that our ice bucket was looking very tired and missing its disposable plastic liner. My solution: the shower cap that we never use anyway. In fact, it actually worked better than the liner bag because the elastic band held it in place around the top of the bucket.

— Susan Swickard
Tagged
Shopping
341275

Easily packable, local specialty foods make great gifts for family and friends at home. At the huge Safeway in Kihei, Maui, we found a great selection of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and Kona coffee beans in elegant gift boxes for far cheaper than in tourist-oriented shops. European grocery stores abound with gift ideas: British teas, French mustards and vinegars, and Italian olive oils are just a few examples. Just bear in mind that meats, produce, and other fresh items are a customs no-no.

— Jennifer Beach
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Hotels
428306

If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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Packing
341289

Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
Tagged
Cruises
428581

Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
468604

It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Shopping
366251

When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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Technology
390282

We always e-mail our itinerary--including flights, hotels, and confirmation numbers--to ourselves and to family members. If our luggage is lost or our wallets are stolen, all of this essential information is just an Internet café and a few quick clicks away.

— Courtney Fuller
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Planning
332241

Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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Air Travel
342271

I always try to work out before heading to the airport. It usually gets me tuckered out enough that I can relax and sleep on the plane. If I don't have time for pre-travel exercise, I take a brisk walk through the terminal before boarding or find a quiet spot in an empty gate for a little yoga.

— Kimberly Gilbert
Tagged
Road Trips
384321

Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
Tagged
Packing
344268

Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
Tagged
Packing
376243

My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins

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