He's jolly, old, and terrifying. More…
Ghosts of the Sierra Madre
In the remote mountains of central Mexico, the old mining town of Real de Catorce is being reborn as a mystical outpost of the counterculture. Whether you go to eat peyote, soak up the hippie vibe, or commune with the spirits, visiting is always a trip.
The road to Real
The nearest airports, in Monterrey and San Luis Potosí, are a three-hour drive away. Turn off Hwy. 57 (Pan-American Hwy.) just north of Matehuala and follow signs to Real de Catorce (by way of the village of Cedral). From Matehuala, it's 40 miles to Real, but the drive--over windy, cobbled roads--takes at least an hour. Once you've passed through the Ogarrio Tunnel, you're there.
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Lodging
El Mesón de la Abundancia Lanzagorta 11, 011-52/488-887-5044, hotelabundancia@hotmail.com, doubles from $55
Hotel El Real Morelos 20, 011-52/488-887-5058, hotelelreal.com, doubles from $51, includes breakfast weekdays only
Food
El Mesón de la Abundancia Lanzagorta 11, 011-52/488-887-5044, chiles rellenos $5
La Esquina Chata Lanzagorta 2, 011-52/488-887-5060, focaccia sandwich $4
El Malambo Lanzagorta at Allende, empanadas de picadillo with salad $2
El Cactus Plaza Hidalgo 3, 011-52/488-887-5056, cabuches pizza $3
El Tolentino Teran 7, tortilla chips and guacamole $3, margarita $4
Activities
Don Boni's Jeep Willys Tour Contact through El Mesón de la Abundancia; from $20 for two hours
Cine Club El Café Mañana, corner of Morelos and Constitución, $1 donation
Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
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