SNAP GUIDE

London: West to Chelsea

SEE The Brompton Oratory Brompton Rd., 20/7808-0900, bromptonoratory.com
This London pompworthy Catholic church is often overlooked--a pity, since its ornate, late-19th-century neo-Baroque interior is eye-popping, and the Old Masters statuary (mostly pilfered from Tuscany and Rome) is outstanding in its own right. Believers can catch mass in Latin daily at 6 p.m.

SEE King's Road
A swanky shopping strip designed by Charles II as a shortcut to his mistress's house, bookended by World's End and Sloane Square. The best place to spy London's moneyed elite browsing for a baby carriage, or to pretend you're James Bond. (Royal Avenue is where Fleming sited Bond's London pad.)

SEE V&A (Victoria & Albert) Museum Cromwell Rd., 20/7942-2000, vam.ac.uk
The world's priciest and most-impressive collection of bric-a-brac, this catch-all museum's stunning holdings range from a set of monolithic Raphael cartoons to a National Fashion Collection that boasts jackets from both Queen Elizabeth's era and current designer Alexander McQueen. Open Mon., Tues., Thurs.--Sun., 10 a.m.--5:45 p.m.; Wed. and last Fri. of month, 10 a.m.--10 p.m. Free; special exhibitions and events from £10.

EAT The Cow 89 Westbourne Park Rd., 20/7221-0021
Gastropub owned by Tom (son of Terence) Conran, with chic, retro fixtures--imagine an upscale tea room from the 1950s--and a menu heavy on seafood. Try a pint of Guinness, the house tipple--as Madonna did during her early days as an adoptive Londoner.

EAT Lisboa Patisserie 57 Golborne Rd., 20/8968-5242
Tucked away in West London, a pilgrimage-worthy Portuguese patisserie, with an on-site bakery that churns out heavenly pastéis de nata (custard tarts).

EAT The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly, 20/7499-6996, thewolseley.com
The newest spot from the creators of The Ivy is a large, brasserie-style restaurant with plenty of seating and long hours, so almost anyone can snag a table. The best (and cheapest) scene is breakfast, when media and fashion types nibble gingerly on housemade date-and-pecan twists or pain au chocolat. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

DRINK Apartment 195 195 King's Rd., 20/7351-5195, apartment195.co.uk
Cozy, dim bar with overstuffed leather seating and, on occasion, roaring open fires in the winter. Its hidden location--in apartment no. 195--means that passing riffraff don't disturb the friendly, local vibe. Closed Sun. in summer. DRINK Trailer Happiness 177 Portobello Rd., 20/7727-2700, trailerhappiness.com Kitschy California-inspired bar, with a 1960s decor (bean bags, lurid prints) and drinks list (mai tais and zombies never went out of style here). Graze on snacks called TV dinners and groove to the low-key DJ.

SHOP Harvey Nichols 109-125 Knightsbridge, 20/7235-5000, harveynichols.com
Harrods may lure the tourists, but Harvey Nick's is the real fashion mecca: a vast, luxurious cosmetics department, two floors of menswear in the basement, and an unbeatable selection of high-end haute couture. Refuel with a glass of bubbly at the Fifth Floor Café.

SHOP J&M Davidson 42 Ledbury Rd., 20/7313-9532, jandmdavidson.co.uk
Artisanal leathers designed by husband-and-wife team John and Monique: women's and men's accessories, plus homewares, and even fashion. Classic but not fusty.

SHOP Olivia Morris 355 Portobello Rd., 20/8962-0353, oliviamorrisshoes.com
Morris is the punky enfant terrible of London's cobbling clique (Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, et al). She makes a range of weird but wearable shoes, from African-inspired wedges to velvet boots. Closed Mon. and Tues.

PLAY The Electric Cinema 191 Portobello Rd., 20/7908-9696, the-electric.co.uk
At last, an alternative to lukewarm popcorn and rock-hard seats: Here, enjoy a movie while lounging in an overstuffed armchair (complete with footstool), sipping a glass of wine, and nibbling on gourmet snacks. There are a couple of secluded two-seater sofas in the back row. Admission from £5.

SPLURGE Gordon Ramsay 68 Royal Hospital Rd., 20/7352-4441, gordonramsay.com
London's answer to New York's Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Ramsay is as famous for his fiery temper--showcased on several hit TV cooking shows--as for his food. A shame, since his take on British staples is tasty and refreshing. With three Michelin stars and only 14 tables, save up for a year or so, and book at least a month in advance. Closed Sat. and Sun.

TIP Avoid fines on the Tube Be sure to take your paper ticket after you pass through the Tube's electronic turnstile. If you're caught without your ticket (many people forget it), fines can reach as high as £20. Transit bobbies roam the underground, regularly stopping riders to demand proof that they've paid.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Packing
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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
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Planning
379252

I've discovered a wonderful way to enjoy massages at a fraction of the usual cost. Some massage-training schools provide superb service in a spa-type environment. Do a Google search to see if there are training programs near your next vacation destination.

— Karen Gardiner
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Planning
343261

If you wait to buy a discount-granting Entertainment Book until around six months before it expires (expiration is usually scheduled for November), you can often buy a $20 to $47 book for as little as $10, plus $5 shipping. Online access to the coupons is sold for $7 a month. These are great for vacations out of town.

— Kitty Bennett
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Technology
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Making international calls back to the States can be confusing if you're using a calling card and you're dialing a number by its catchphrase, such as CALL ATT. Obviously, many countries don't have the English alphabet on the telephone keypad. My solution? I create my own small keypads on a computer, print them out, and attach them inside my wallet, to my passport, and to my calling cards.

— Peter Morris
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Packing
365239

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Hotels
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Planning
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If you arrive in a foreign city after banking hours (and you can't use an ATM), convert only the money you'll need for the night. Some exchange booths offer a less favorable rate after banks close and then switch back to competitive rates when banks reopen.

— Jim Citron
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Packing
371236

I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
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Transportation
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Packing
340239

If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Packing
349279

Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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Planning
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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Packing
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Grab-rails and nonskid surfaces aren't common in European bathtubs and showers. I pack a few decorative rubber pads that have non-adhesive suction cups, so I can use them when needed to prevent a slip or fall, and then I take them with me to the next hotel.

— Fran Plewak
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Cruises
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

— Bill Serues
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Hotels
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Instead of dropping my laundry off at the front desk, I take a walk around the block and look for the nearest dry cleaner--probably the same one the hotel would've taken it to. By cutting out the middle man, I pay a quarter of what they charge at the hotel!

— Amy Paks
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Family Travel
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Put toys within kids' reach on road trips. Hang a shoe organizer on the back of the passenger seat so children can keep stuffed animals, books, and games organized in the pockets. Having everything close at hand may help prevent meltdowns along the way.

— Jennifer Casasanto
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Car Rentals
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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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Technology
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To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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Hotels
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Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty
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Packing
372281

No longer do the many key chains I get as advertising languish in bureau drawers. I attach one or two at the ends of my luggage zippers. They make it easier to work the zippers and help me identify my luggage on airport carousels.

— Marie J. Kilker
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Packing
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When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

— Haley Christensen
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Planning
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My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
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Photography
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I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
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Packing
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My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

— Wendy Barr
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Safety
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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Road Trips
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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Technology
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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Air Travel
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Even if you're not hungry when the flight attendant comes around with the snack service, take it for later. Although peanuts may not look appetizing at 7 a.m., they will look good later if you have nothing better to eat. And it saves you from picking up something at expensive airport shops.

— Fran Rifkin
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Dining
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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

— Mario Gonzalez

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