Paris: Latin Quarter, Around St-Germain, & South

SEE The Towers of Notre-Dame
6 place du Parvis Notre-Dame, 01/53-10-07-02, cathedraledeparis.com
A stroll into the cavernous gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame is awe-inspiring and free. But for a modest fee you can climb up the northern tower in a tight, spiraling stone staircase that provides a close encounter of the gargoyle kind, not to mention the best view of Paris the Middle Ages had to offer. E6.10.

SEE Les Catacombes
1 avenue Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 01/43-22-47-63
Several miles of dank, underground passages are lined, thanks to cemetery overflow, with the bones of some 6 million Parisians. (The space-saving solution was abandoned in 1859.) They provide a morbid but interesting glimpse into the city's buried past. Kids especially dig the scary experience. Weekday tours are in French, or you can meander through the one-mile stretch open to unguided tourists. E5.

EAT Così
54 rue de Seine, 01/46-33-35-36
The original Così sandwich shop that spawned the American chain. Choose from an array of mouthwatering items, led by the Salmo: oven-warmed, leavened flat bread stuffed with smoked salmon, walnut ricotta cheese, and chives.

EAT Jim Haynes' Sunday Soirée
83 rue de la Tombe-Issoire, atelier A-2, 01/43-27-17-67 jim-haynes.com
Dine with a caboodle of expat, French, and traveling socialites in the loft of this retired American writer who throws open his doors almost every Sunday night to the first 50 to 70 people who phone on Saturday. The buffet fare (which changes week to week) is so-so, but the mingling is sure to entertain-art, literature, and politics are all on the table as topics of discussion. Recommended donation: E20.

EAT La Fourmi Ailée
8 rue du Fouarre, 01/43-29-40-99
Strands of Christmas lights, tall iron candle stands, and, on cool evenings, a roaring fireplace set the ambience in this literary café and restaurant, where customers may read books they choose off the plentiful shelves. Sit on the mezzanine (it has an attractive glass ceiling that sheds extra light on the pages) and try duck baked in a salt crust (canard en croûte de sel).

EAT Le Flore en l'Ile
42 quai d'Orléans, 01/43-29-88-27
Ice cream made by the legendary Parisian glacier Berthillon, a family affair that's been tantalizing locals with many standard (vanilla) and more exotic (tangerine-chocolate-Grand Marnier) flavors for three generations. A bit pricey, but there's a view of Notre-Dame and the Panthéon from the parlor tables.

EAT Les Délices de Verneuil
42 rue de Verneuil, 01/42-61-24-12
This fine take-out delicatessen sells supplies for picnics on the nearby pedestrian-only Pont des Arts bridge. Pick up sautéed garlic prawns (sold by the kilo) or thin zucchini cakes.

DRINK La Palette
43 rue de Seine, 01/43-26-68-15
A welcome substitute to the nearby Café de Flore, the tourist-swamped former office of existentialist Jean-Paul Sartre. Customers actually do write and sketch at La Palette, plus the decor is better (lots of mirrors, elegant dark woodwork), the private terrace is bigger, and the coffee is cheaper.

DRINK Les Étages St-Germain
5 rue de Buci, 01/46-34-26-26
A stylishly ramshackle café in the heart of the capital's bar-laden "Vallée de la Soif," or Valley of Thirst, with fun miniature armchairs and Frisbee-size tables. Order the Boréal, the house specialty made with pineapple, banana, and tequila.

SHOP Le Marché aux Fleurs and Le Marché aux Oiseaux
Place Louis-Lépine, on Ile de la Cité
This delightful daily flower market, in an elegant Baltard-style iron-and-glass pavilion, manages to perfume even the sidewalk running along the square. On Sundays, a colorful and cacophonic bird market also sets up shop. Closed Mon.

SHOP Mouton à Cinq Pattes
138 boulevard St-Germain, 01/43-26-49-25
A good place for brand-name men's and women's clothes that are up-to-date. Expect to wait for a changing room.

SHOP Tea and Tattered Pages
24 rue Mayet, 01/40-65-94-35
One of Paris's best-priced English-language bookshops, with more than 17,000 used books. A resident cat and intimate tearoom in the back add to the homey ambience.

PLAY Caveau de la Bolée
25 rue de l'Hirondelle, 01/43-54-62-20
Rowdy students cheer, sing, and crack jokes along with the comedians, magicians, and singers in this smoky cabaret packed with tiny tables and housed in a vaulted cellar. Non-French speakers may want to skip the comedy, but other shows have wide appeal. Free with drinks or dinner.

PLAY Polly Maggoo
3-5 rue du Petit-Pont, 01/46-33-33-64
Sorbonne students play chess (Sundays at 4 p.m., just show up) and backgammon in a café named after William Klein's 1966 film Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?, a spoof on pretentious Parisian models. Don't have time for a game? Walk past for a gander at the stunning, neo-art deco blue-and-gold mosaic storefront.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Packing
374271

When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

— Haley Christensen
Tagged
Loyalty Programs
310258

Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

— Jonelle Niffenegger
Tagged
Hotels
393326

Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes to seal them together.

— Elisabeth Joyce
Tagged
Photography
334262

Accidentally reformat your camera's memory card? As long as you don't overwrite the disk by shooting more photos, those original pictures are still there. Buy another card to use in the meantime, and then, when you get home, either purchase a file-recovery software program (about $35) or take the card to a camera shop and see if someone there can help.

— Julie Mancini
Tagged
Planning
339258

If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
Tagged
Packing
333266

Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
Tagged
Planning
346248

If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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Technology
367268

After I fell into a stream in Cambodia, my digital camera wouldn't work. Someone suggested leaving the camera in a bag of rice overnight to draw out any condensation. By the next morning, it was dry and working perfectly.

— Roger Bailey
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Packing
336267

Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

— Jon Chun
Tagged
Loyalty Programs
346270

Before using frequent-flier miles, investigate how much the flight actually costs. For example, it takes at least 25,000 miles per person to travel from Boston to Alaska. The same flight cost us $288. After paying for our tickets, we received enough additional miles to travel for free to Sweden instead of Alaska!

— Bobby Pellant
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Air Travel
342265

I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

— John Eymann
Tagged
Air Travel
362263

Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary
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Packing
327254

I like to bring a Frisbee when I travel. At the hotel, it's a convenient place to collect car keys, loose change, my ChapStick, and any other small objects I normally keep in my pockets. I always know where everything is, and things won't fall off the nightstand. It's also handy to have so you can play Frisbee at a nearby park or beach.

— Margot Johnson
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Cruises
423582

For fire-safety reasons, cabins don't have their own irons. Don't wait until the last minute to tackle your evening wardrobe. You can find shared irons down the hall in the laundry room, but lines often form before mealtimes. Opt for off-hours (like mornings).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Shopping
355275

A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
Tagged
Planning
328275

If I plan to travel to several countries that use different currencies, I pack a few cloth change purses: U.S. dollars go into one, British pounds in another, euros in a third, etc. When I'm sightseeing, I carry only the money I need; the purses that I'm not using are locked away in the hotel safe. I avoid fumbling around in shops and mixing up coins that look alike. Plus,I always know exactly how much cash I have.

— Peg Welch
Tagged
Planning
347256

We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Shopping
334251

Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

— Rami Aboumahadi
Tagged
Packing
336241

Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

— Erika Kumada
Tagged
Cruises
358295

We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
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Packing
494561

A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Shopping
329257

It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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Technology
372277

We always e-mail our itinerary--including flights, hotels, and confirmation numbers--to ourselves and to family members. If our luggage is lost or our wallets are stolen, all of this essential information is just an Internet café and a few quick clicks away.

— Courtney Fuller
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Technology
403281

Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

— Marc Oppy
Tagged
Shopping
331272

Easily packable, local specialty foods make great gifts for family and friends at home. At the huge Safeway in Kihei, Maui, we found a great selection of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and Kona coffee beans in elegant gift boxes for far cheaper than in tourist-oriented shops. European grocery stores abound with gift ideas: British teas, French mustards and vinegars, and Italian olive oils are just a few examples. Just bear in mind that meats, produce, and other fresh items are a customs no-no.

— Jennifer Beach
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Technology
364268

When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

— Mina Camera
Tagged
Planning
329251

My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
Tagged
Safety
414296

Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

— Connie Crusha
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Technology
370263

Check out worldclimate.com to find monthly average temperatures and rainfall for thousands of cities worldwide. You can avoid countries during their rainy seasons, and the information is useful for figuring out what to pack.

— Elizabeth Bass
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Safety
417309

Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

— Mainard Tom

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