SNAP GUIDE

Buenos Aires: Essentials

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT

Airport Bus Service
011-54-11/4315-5115, tiendaleon.com.ar
Manuel Tienda León buses run between the international airport and the downtown Retiro station. Its kiosk is located inside Arrivals. Buses into the city leave every half hour until 9 p.m. (Call for the night schedule.) The ride takes 40 minutes. $8.70, one way.

Remises Taxis
Avoid the cabbies who holler at you, and go straight to a remises booth to book a car. Drivers take up to four people per car and operate on a flat rate. $20 for a ride to the city center.

GETTING AROUND

Bus
The bus, or collectivo, system is complicated and chaotic, so don't waste your time trying to figure it out if you're only in B.A. for a few days. Newspaper kiosks sell city-bus guides (Guias T) for 70¢. Buy your tickets onboard (28¢ per ride).

Subwaymetrovias.com.ar
Commonly referred to as the subte, this small subway network makes convenient tourist stops, including Plaza Serrano, the Bosques of Palermo, and Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. It runs 5 a.m.-10:20 p.m., so it's not an option for late-night transportation. Ask for a free map (mapa) at any station. 24¢ per ride.

Taxis
Taxis are cheap and plentiful. To avoid hailing an unlicensed cab, look for a certified 'Radio Taxi' (written on the car doors). Available cars will have the 'Libre' sign lit in their front windows. Four people per taxi. Rides from $1. (If you need to call: Radio Taxi Ciudad, 011-54-11/4923-7007, radiotaxiciudad.com.ar)

WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN

At newsstands

 

  • Buenos Aires Heraldbuenosairesherald.com
  •  

  • Time Out Buenos Aires, timeout.com/travel/buenosaires
  • TOURS

    Buenos Aires Outdoors
    011-54-11/4797-1143, buenosairesoutdoors.com.ar
    Low-impact outdoor tours, including day trips to Tigre, and to traditional ranches (see Escapes box on page 8). $50 for a half-day tour of the pampas (the provincial grasslands) and local ranches; includes horseback riding.

    Fall in Love With Buenos Aires
    011-54-11/4656-5714, fallinlovewithba.com
    Run by a couple with extensive experience, these historical walking tours put a refreshing emphasis on the porteño perspective. Pedro Porqueras's specialty: Recoleta Cemetery. His five-hour tour by minivan also includes a coffee break at the historic Café Tortoni. $10-$15/person for three-hour walking tour, $30-$50/person for van tour.

    Free city tours
    Buenos Aires Undersecretary of Tourism, 011-54-11/4114-5791, bue.gov.ar/recorridos
    Guided walking and bus tours. Themes are varied and include a good mix of neighborhoods and topics, such as "Notable bars of Recoleta" and "Eva Peron." English tours take place as indicated on the online schedule. Call the office for more information (in English). Space is limited on bus tours; call Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-1 p.m. to reserve. Free.

    La Bicicleta Naranja
    Pasaje Giuffra 308 (corner of Balcarce), 011-54-11/4362-1104, labicicletanaranja.com.ar
    Tours leave from San Telmo and focus on the southern or northern sections of B.A., or the riverbank and coastal grassy wetland Reserva Ecológica. Rentals include comfortable orange bikes with helmets, locks, storage bags, maps, and a drink. $19 for four hours with a guide.

    NUMBERS TO KNOW

     

  • Emergency Police 101, Fire 100, Medical Emergency 107
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  • Help in English Tourist Police Station, 0800-999-5000 (or 011-54-11/4346-5748)
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  • International operator 000, Directory info 110
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  • Tourist info 011-54-11/4312-7276 or 011-54-11/4313-5503 (Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-8 p.m.)
  •  

  • Concert, theater, and sports tickets Ticketek, 011-54-11/5237-7200, ticketek.com.ar
  •  

  • For local calls, drop the international access number (011), the country code (54), and the city code (11). All local numbers have eight digits.
  • FUNNY MONEY: HOW TO SPOT FAKE PESOS
    Counterfeit bills are common in B.A., so you should always exchange currency at a reputable place. But to detect phonies, hold the bill up to the light. If it's real

     

  • The ink on the denomination number will change colors.
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  • There will be a metallic thread woven into the border between the picture and white spaces.
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  • The portrait of the historical figure will be clear, not blurry.
  •  

  • The paper will have the same feel as a US dollar bill.
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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    Packing
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    Packing
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    Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

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    Planning
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    Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

    — John Nechman
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    Packing
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    Travel soap dishes--the colorful plastic ones that have hinged lids--stop small, fragile items from getting damaged or lost in your bags. I can easily label and use them again and again and again.

    — Revon Wolf
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    Hotels
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    When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

    — Fran Schaak
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    Packing
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    An extra contact lens case holds enough toiletries for a short trip. Squeeze a few dabs of toothpaste into one side and perhaps some facial cleanser or moisturizer in the other side. Just the right amount of each will fit for your overnights or weekends away.

    — Jen Shoemaker
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    Shopping
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    — Stacy Shaw
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    Shopping
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    — Susan Day
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    I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

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