SNAP GUIDE

Buenos Aires: Microcentro

The business and banking center of the city, with a bustling downtown atmosphere. Because it's also the national nexus for demonstrators from around the country, protests are common.

SEE

Centro Cultural Borges
Calle Viamonte and Calle San Martin, 011-54-11/5555-5359, ccborges.org.ar
Art exhibitions, independent films, and musical shows featuring everything from rock to flamenco fill the calendar at this eight-year-old center. It's located in the same 1896 building as the Galerías Pacífico, an upscale mall. (See listing below.) Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sun. 12 p.m.-9 p.m. Entrance to exhibits $1.

SEE

Manzana de las Luces (Block of Enlightenment)
Calle Perú 272, 011-54-11/4342-6973, manzanadelasluces.gov.ar
A block of buildings that form what was historically the intellectual center of Buenos Aires. A network of tunnels connects different sites, including the Jesuit Iglesia de San Ignacio (built in 1675), an elite high school, and a reconstruction of the original Sala de Representantes, Argentina's first legislature.

EAT

Café Tortoni
Avenida de Mayo 829, 011-54-11/4342-4328, cafetortoni.com.ar
A porteño institution. If you can ignore the outlandish prices and throngs of tourists, you can almost imagine yourself sipping coffee with literati at the dawn of the 1900s. Founded in 1858, it's Parisian to the core with marble tabletops, wood paneling, pillars, and brusque male waiters. A visit is well worth the price of a café con leche, $1.50.

EAT

El Claustro
Calle San Martin 705, 011-54-11/4312-0235, santacatalina.org.ar/Restaurant.htm
The menu features enormous, ridiculously cheap portions of basic porteño fare such as grilled meat and chicken. Ask for the traditional chimichurri sauce-made from olive oil, garlic, basil, thyme, oregano, and chili-to accompany your meats. The real draw here is the outdoor seating, on the patio of the Santa Catalina Convent (built in 1745), with its white colonial arches and lush palm trees. Service can be slow. Open for lunch only.

EAT

Sabot
Calle 25 de Mayo 756, 011-54-11/4313-6587
Excellent well-priced porteño food in an upscale B.A. dining hall with austere dark wood-paneled walls and white tablecloths. Its specialty is the tender cabrito al horno (roast baby goat). It's popular with the business crowd, so make a reservavation. Closed Sat. and Sun.

EAT

Vasco Frances
Calle Moreno 1370, 011-54-11/4381-5415
Seafood specialties have been flying out of the kitchen at this classic salon-style restaurant tucked into the Basque French Center for 110 years. Try the arroz negro Vasco Frances-black rice (tinted with squid ink), lobster, and mussels. A full meal runs $15.

DRINK

La Cigale
Calle 25 de Mayo 722, 011-54-11/4312-8275
A French-owned favorite with B.A.'s young after-work crowd. The très dark bar features DJs and/or live music on weeknights. Tuesdays are dedicated to French-accented house and dance tunes. Ask about the daily drink specials. No cover.

SHOP

Calle Florida
There's a Hong Kong-meets-Lima feeling on this chaotic pedestrian shopping street/outdoor mall, where the main focus is footwear (all styles). Clothing, book, and music stores are interspersed among the plentiful shoe shops. Warning: Don't get lured by the aggressive people selling leather jackets; save your pennies for cheaper "leather alley," as Calle Murillo is known.

SHOP

La Librería de Avila
Calle Adolfo Alsina 500, 011-54-11/4331-8989, libreriadeavila.servisur.com
B.A.'s oldest bookstore, dating from 1785. A vast collection of new and used titles, in Spanish and other languages, specializes in Argentinean history. Its jumbled, dusty veneer gives it character, and its many chairs invite lingering.

SHOP

Winery
Avenida Corrientes 302, 011-54-11/4394-2200, winery.com.ar
A high-end chain of wine stores. The knowledgeable staff will even pack your bottles for travel. The best part: You don't have to spend more than 30 pesos ($10) for a fine Argentinean wine-try a malbec or a torrontes.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Packing
328261

Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

— Roland Zuniga
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Planning
352254

Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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Air Travel
319246

Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
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Packing
335273

To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

— Patricia LaRock
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Packing
348233

When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

— Keely McNerney
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Packing
350226

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Packing
345280

When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

— Ellen Worthing
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Shopping
331272

Easily packable, local specialty foods make great gifts for family and friends at home. At the huge Safeway in Kihei, Maui, we found a great selection of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and Kona coffee beans in elegant gift boxes for far cheaper than in tourist-oriented shops. European grocery stores abound with gift ideas: British teas, French mustards and vinegars, and Italian olive oils are just a few examples. Just bear in mind that meats, produce, and other fresh items are a customs no-no.

— Jennifer Beach
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Car Rentals
321260

Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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Cruises
347308

If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Family Travel
512548

At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
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Cruises
428554

Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Planning
340241

Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
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Packing
326254

Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

— Ed Wilhite
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Cruises
358295

We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
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Hotels
424334

When I called to book a hotel room in Budapest, I was offered a rate of $75 per night. After I told the concierge that I was looking for a room in the $35 range, he agreed to the lower price without much fuss. It sometimes pays to barter.

— Julie Jensen
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Technology
380269

Download the most up-to-date airline schedules from the individual airline Web sites to your PDA before you leave home. Should you encounter a delay or cancellation at the airport, you'll have all the information needed to find another flight quickly.

— Neal Green
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Loyalty Programs
342250

Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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Shopping
353252

Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Planning
345277

Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
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Cruises
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Cruise lines offer packaged side trips at their ports of call. If you go online and look for these expeditions ahead of time, you can book directly with the tour companies and save money.

— Cindy Rucker
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Packing
333266

Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
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Packing
329253

Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

— Kathryn Murphy
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Cruises
368288

If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
342265

I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

— John Eymann
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Hotels
386327

When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

— Paul Schnebelen
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Planning
326267

Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

— Patricia Beagle
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Technology
362290

When seeking a cheap airfare, don't forget to consult the Web sites of the major charter tour operators--like Apple Vacations, TNT Vacations, Vacation Express, or SunTrips--which frequently sell air-only tickets in addition to air-and-hotel packages. Doing so helped me slash the cost of round-trip airfare to visit my mother in Las Vegas by well over 50 percent.

— Pam McMenamin
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Packing
390560

If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

— Rebecca Oberg
Tagged
Hotels
424327

Don't assume a single room costs less than a double one. I booked a hotel in Spain online and noticed that rates were the same whether I booked a single or a double, but the single was much smaller and its bathroom had only a small shower stall and no tub.

— Don Carne

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