SNAP GUIDE

Buenos Aires: Retiro & Congreso

Retiro is north of Microcentro and known for its office buildings and the hilly Plaza San Martin. It flows into stately Congreso, named for its government and national court buildings (tribunales).

SEE

Plaza San Martín
North end of Calle Florida
A great place to take a breather and people-watch on the rolling lawn. A statue of Argentinean independence hero General San Martin provides the centerpiece for the green-fringed colonial town square (or, in this case, circle).

EAT

Pizzería Guerrín
Avenida Corrientes 1368, 011-54-11/4371-8141, pizzeriaguerrin.com.ar
The B.A. pizza joint since 1932. Start with a few slices of the fugazza (cheeseless pizza), before moving on to any one of the savory cheesy varieties. $3.80 for a large mozzarella pie; $3.10 if you eat it standing up.

PLAY

Corrientes Theaters
A mini Spanish-language Broadway that spans 10 blocks of Avenida Corrientes, from Calle Maipú to Avenida Callao. Check out the state-owned Teatro San Martin (Av. Corrientes 1530, 0800-333-5254, teatrosanmartin.com.ar) for affordable, high-quality theater, dance, and concerts. Buy tickets online, or just walk up to the box office. $10.

PLAY

Teatro Colón
Calle Cerrito 618, 011-54-11/4378-7100, teatrocolon.org.ar
B.A.'s version of the Paris opera house. Founded in 1908, it hosts orchestra, opera, and ballet performances in its gold and red velvet salons. $5-$15 for symphony tickets. Tours from 11 a.m., 1 p.m., and 3 p.m. daily. Reserve at least a day in advance. $4.20, kids under 17 $1.

ESCAPES

Gaucho Country

San Antonio de Areco: The historic town (welcomeargentina.com/sanantoniodeareco) and the surrounding pampas (grasslands) give a glimpse into Argentina's romantic gaucho past. The gaucho was Argentina's equivalent of the cowboy; his signature garb included baggy pants, a knife at his waist, and a beret. The gaucho way of life is long gone but today men come out in traditional gear for horse shows and dances. San Antonio's highlights include a pedestrian bridge, once the toll crossing between the capital and the unknown interior, and the Gaucho Museum (Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes). Getting there: The first-class Nueva Chevallier bus line at the Retiro bus terminal (Terminal de Omnibus de Retiro, Av. Antártida Argentina at the corner of Calle 10) has more than 20 buses to San Antonio de Areco per day. To reserve, call 011-54-11/4000-5255, or show up, buy your ticket, and board. $8.30 for a two-hour round-trip ride.

Estancias: Gaucho Country is full of charming traditional Argentine ranches, or estancias. Many of these are luxurious guesthouses, where you can spend a "day in the country" (día de campo). Activities include horseback riding and eating asado criollo (Argentine open-pit barbeque). Prices often include meals, but activities are separate. It's $240 for a double room (continental breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner for two, and all nonalcoholic beverages included) at the Estancia La Bamba (la-bamba.com.ar, 011-54-11/4732-1269), $50 for a día de campo. Contact Estancias Argentinas (Avenida Diagonal Presidente, Roque Saenz Peña 616, 011-54-11/4343-2366, estanciasargentinas.com) for a complete listing of ranches and prices. If you're willing to explore farther into the province you can find cheaper rates.

Tigre
Only 20 miles from downtown Buenos Aires, Tigre marks the beginning of the lush Delta del Paraná and is a popular weekend getaway. Its amazing fruit market, craft shops, and channels lined with stilt houses are not to be missed. Getting there: Take the tourist Tren de la Costa (coastal train) from the Maipú station (Avenida Maipú 2300, between Calle Ramseyer and Calle Marconi). Taxi rides to the Maipú station from downtown run $7-$9. When at the Tren de la Costa, ask for a direct ticket to Delta, $4.20 for a round-trip tourist-class ticket (boleto turístico); you can hop on and off at any of the nine stations along the way.

Colonia, Uruguay
This pleasant colonial town lies across the river from B.A. and, because it's in another country, you'll need your passport. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Colonia was founded by the Portuguese in the late 1600s. Getting there: Buquebus ferries (Avenida Antártida Argentina 821) leave from Puerto Madero at 9 a.m. and 11 a.m., and return at 5:30 p.m. and 6:45 p.m. $35 for a three-hour round-trip ferry ride; $62 for a one-hour ride on a smaller, faster boat. (Buquebus Ticket Office, Avenida Córdoba 879, 011-54-11/4316-6500, buquebus.com)

THE DIRTY WAR

Argentina was under military dictatorship between 1976 and 1983 after a junta led by General Jorge Rafael Videla seized power from then-president Isabel Perón (the widow of famed former president Juan Perón). Initially, the regime drew broad popular support for its efforts to fight left-wing terrorism. But its heavy-handed tactics soon became violent and were ultimately aimed at innocent civilians. Human-rights groups estimate that nearly 30,000 Argentine civilians disappeared during this time. Mothers and grandmothers of "the disappeared" still meet every Thursday at 3 p.m. in the Plaza de Mayo to demand justice for their relatives.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Safety
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Rather than risk losing your department-store credit cards and club-membership cards, you should really leave them behind when you go somewhere you won't need them. Your purse or wallet will be lighter and your worries fewer.

— George Bracken
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Planning
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Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
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Photography
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Accidentally reformat your camera's memory card? As long as you don't overwrite the disk by shooting more photos, those original pictures are still there. Buy another card to use in the meantime, and then, when you get home, either purchase a file-recovery software program (about $35) or take the card to a camera shop and see if someone there can help.

— Julie Mancini
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Packing
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For overnight flights, pack a few Oral B Brush-Ups in your carry-on. Before the plane lands, you can "brush" your teeth, leaving you refreshed and ready for the day!

— Janice Pruitt Winfrey
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Planning
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You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Air Travel
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If your flight is canceled, don't just wait patiently in line to be booked on another flight; call the airline's 800 number. They'll answer your call faster, and you won't be waiting with other stranded passengers from that flight. (Or cover all bases by calling while in line.)

— Karen LoPresto-Arbaugh
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Rental Cars
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I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

— Jeff Mishur
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Hotels
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The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

— Karen Hartz
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Planning
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Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Packing
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A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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Technology
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When seeking a cheap airfare, don't forget to consult the Web sites of the major charter tour operators--like Apple Vacations, TNT Vacations, Vacation Express, or SunTrips--which frequently sell air-only tickets in addition to air-and-hotel packages. Doing so helped me slash the cost of round-trip airfare to visit my mother in Las Vegas by well over 50 percent.

— Pam McMenamin
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Packing
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Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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Road Trips
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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt
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Air Travel
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We were told by an airport security official to tape a business card onto the cover of our laptop. Turns out he has an average of six laptop computers left behind each day! There are so many more procedures now--removing shoes, removing coats--that people forget when they send their laptop through in a separate bin. The official added that it's very difficult to return them because most laptops have passwords that keep the owners' personal information hidden.

— Liz Nealon
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Packing
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Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle
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Family Travel
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Want to visit museums with your children without the boredom and tears? Go to the gift shop first and buy postcards of the museum's most famous works. Have your kids treasure hunt for these masterpieces. When you get home the postcards can go right into your trip album.

— Daphna Woolfe
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Transportation
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A bike tour will offer a good introduction to a place, and you'll cover much more ground than if you were on foot. In Buenos Aires, for example, Lan & Kramer Bike Tours (biketours.com.ar) has a few guided itineraries that are fun for all ages and abilities.

— Meda Florin
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Air Travel
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On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Packing
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My husband cut an old contact lens case in two and uses the halves to carry his medication when we're traveling. He prefers them to regular pillboxes because lens cases are watertight and compact enough to carry inside a shirt pocket.

— Jean Holtmann
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Planning
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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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Packing
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Grab-rails and nonskid surfaces aren't common in European bathtubs and showers. I pack a few decorative rubber pads that have non-adhesive suction cups, so I can use them when needed to prevent a slip or fall, and then I take them with me to the next hotel.

— Fran Plewak
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Packing
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Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
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Technology
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We always e-mail our itinerary--including flights, hotels, and confirmation numbers--to ourselves and to family members. If our luggage is lost or our wallets are stolen, all of this essential information is just an Internet café and a few quick clicks away.

— Courtney Fuller
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Planning
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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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Loyalty Programs
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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Packing
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Before I visit poorer countries, I pop into a thrift store and pick up some toys, stuffed animals, and an old suitcase or carryall. I try to avoid toys like Easter bunnies or Santas, which could be offensive, and expensive things that might embarrass parents. The contents of my extra bag bring joy to countless kids who have never had a thing.

— Ingrid Newkirk
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Packing
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Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

— Ed Wilhite
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Family Travel
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It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

— Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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Hotels
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Before you buy expensive bottled water from your hotel room minibar, head to the fitness center. You'll be able to fill up an empty bottle at the gym's water cooler or fountain for free, and you don't need to break a sweat.

— Amanda Geraci
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Packing
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Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello

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