SNAP GUIDE

Buenos Aires: Barrio Norte

Adjacent to the ritzy Recoleta neighbhorhood, only quieter and more residential, with countless charming places to eat, drink, and while away an afternoon.

EAT

Cumaná
Calle Rodríguez Peña 1149, 011-54-11/4813-9207
The main draws are the meat and vegetable cazuelas (casseroles) baked in a stone oven. Those made with lentejas (lentils) are especially hearty and delicious. Warning: Vegetarians should beware of "unadvertised" pork in the seemingly all-veggie dishes. Expect crowds and slow service, but you can doodle with crayons while you wait.

EAT

La Cholita
Calle Rodríguez Peña 1165, 011-54-11/4815-4506
The Argentinean yuppie's version of the neighborhood parilla (or grill). It's fun, but can get crowded and loud. Try maté, the traditional bitter herbal drink, here in the afternoon. It's even served with a bombilla, an ornate silver straw.

DRINK

Clásica y Moderna
Avenida Callao 892, 011-54-11/4811-3670, clasicaymoderna.com
A bookstore that originally opened in 1938 is now a café, bar, restaurant, and art gallery rolled into one. On weekends, the cozy bohemian venue features live jazz or tango performances. From $7 per performance.

DRINK

The Shamrock
Calle Rodríguez Peña 1220, 011-54-11/4812-3584, theshamrockbar.com
An Irish pub with few Celtic reminders besides beer paraphernalia. Tourists and locals love it. The lure? A daily happy hour that lasts until midnight. Thursday nights are especially hopping.

SHOP

A&G
Avenida Santa Fe 1725, 011-54-11/4811-8567, aygstore.com.ar
Custom-cut bikinis that tend to offer more coverage than the more common floss-like variety. For pool and beach emergencies, A&G can have your new suit ready and delivered to your hotel in four hours. $14 for bikini and delivery.

SHOP

Galería Quinta (Fifth) Avenida
Avenida Santa Fe 1270, 011-54-11/4816-0451
If you're lucky, you can find a leather jacket for less than $35 in this vintage clothing mall, which also has boutiques that sell funky shoes and clothes with psychedelic prints.

SPLURGE

Aqua Vita Medical Spa
Calle Arenales 1965, 011-54-11/4812-5989, aquavitamedicalspa.com
Get pampered for five straight hours with this luxurious water-themed spa's Anti-Stress Day package, which includes full-body exfoliation, algae body wrap, aroma hydrotherapy, deep-tissue massage, shiatsu facial, reflexology, and much more. A ridiculous value for $134. If all you want is a steam bath and a one-hour massage, it costs $38.

SOCCER

El fútbol in Argentina is world-class. Not only is the country home to soccer legend Diego Maradona, but it also has won two World Cups. Argentina has 20 teams in its premier division (many of which are concentrated in greater B.A.) that compete at both national and international levels. The most famous and the most heated matches are between the two main opposing teams from the capital, the Boca Juniors and River Plate. The season is divided into two parts, the apertura (opening) from August to December and the clausura (closing) from February to July. Most matches are on Sundays. It's also possible to tour the city's main stadium.

La Bombonera Stadium & Museum
Calle Brandsen 805, 011-54-11/4515-0651 (stadium), 011-54-11/4362-1100 (museum), museoboquense.com
Home to the Boca Juniors. Maradona has long left the team, but Boca spirit lives on. Open daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., $4.40 for stadium tour. Tickets for all premier matches start at around $10 and can be purchased at the stadium, but it's easier to go through a tour agency.

Tangol Tours
Calle Florida 971, No. 59 (1st Floor), 011-54-11/4312-7276, tangol.com
Organized match tours remove the stress of finding the stadiums and seating, while also providing local soccer lore. $31 for transportation to/from your hotel, game tickets, an English-speaking guide, and a lesson in fútbol etiquette.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

Tagged
Family Travel
349228

If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
Tagged
Air Travel
370268

Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary
Tagged
Air Travel
357270

Finding healthy breakfast alternatives at an airport can prove difficult. I always travel with an insulated travel mug. Before leaving home I fill it with a high-protein cereal and then request low-fat milk on the flight.

— Randy Hartselle
Tagged
Air Travel
358250

If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
Tagged
Safety
411300

I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
Tagged
Safety
426319

I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
Tagged
Cruises
456584

Don't assume you can save a spot at the pool with your towel. Cruise lines give you one pool towel at the start of the cruise. If you don't have it (or a cleaned trade-in) at the end, you'll get charged. If you let it out of your sight, you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen by a fellow cruiser.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
Tagged
Family Travel
354268

Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
Tagged
Photography
366283

Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
Tagged
Cruises
428581

Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
Tagged
Family Travel
364250

When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
Tagged
Shopping
355261

If you plan to buy crafts in a country where bargaining is expected, use the time it takes for luggage to be unloaded to scope out the airport stores. Jot down items you like and their retail prices. If you find a similar item while touring the country, you have a top-end bargaining point. If you don't find the object at a better price, you can always pick it up at the airport while you're waiting for your flight home.

— Deborah Seter
Tagged
Technology
371273

When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

— Mina Camera
Tagged
Technology
385263

Before my last long flight, I went to librivox.org and chose a bunch of books, short stories, and poems to download to my iPod--for free. The site has both adult and children's books, and the list is growing. All of the titles are in the public domain, and they're read by volunteers, so there's no question of copyright infringement. Even if you don't own an iPod, you can download them to your computer and burn them onto a CD.

— Diane Bowman
Tagged
Hotels
406330

Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
Tagged
Technology
451610

Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
Tagged
Transportation
345239

When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
Tagged
Safety
427317

A padlocked zipper tells thieves there's something in your bag worth stealing, but a key ring is much less obvious. Just use it to latch together the zippers. Best of all, you'll never have to worry about forgetting your combination.

— France Freeman
Tagged
Dining
363268

Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant
Tagged
Air Travel
345269

Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
Tagged
Hotels
410352

Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
Tagged
Cruises
374323

If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
Tagged
Packing
348249

Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
Tagged
Planning
353268

If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
Tagged
Packing
506576

A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
Tagged
Dining
376261

Deli counters in grocery stores are great mealtime alternatives to restaurants or fast-food fare when you're exploring the United States. The food is fresh, there's a big variety (hot and cold), and economically, it's a great break. I recently had a complete hot meal, including beverage, for $3 from a grocery-store deli.

— Teresa G. Barcus
Tagged
Planning
365267

When we come home at night, my wife and I each take a dollar from our wallets and put them in a special spot. We deposit what we've collected into a travel account at our bank every few months, so at the end of a year, we have $730 toward our next vacation—not counting interest.

— Wayne Block
Tagged
Planning
344261

If you're traveling with someone, discuss a central meeting place in case you get separated. My husband and I were in Paris waiting to board the Metro. He was able to board the train, but I was left behind on the platform. Having a plan saved both time and needless anxiety.

— Marian Moss
Tagged
Technology
389272

Download the most up-to-date airline schedules from the individual airline Web sites to your PDA before you leave home. Should you encounter a delay or cancellation at the airport, you'll have all the information needed to find another flight quickly.

— Neal Green
Tagged
Packing
338243

Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle

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