SNAP GUIDE

Buenos Aires: San Telmo & La Boca

B.A.'s most old-fashioned and touristy neighborhoods. Artists, intellectuals and antique vendors still flock to San Telmo. Nestled by the city's southern port, La Boca was founded by Italian immigrants.

SEE

Caminito
Docks from Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza to Calle Olavarría
Evoking bygone days in La Boca, this alleyway lined with rickety primary-colored houses, artists selling canvases, and tango performers is the stuff of postcards. It's best to visit in the daytime only; the street's after-dark reputation is dicey.

EAT

El Federal
Calle Carlos Calvo 599, 011-54-11/4300-4313
Fabulous porteño bistro with loads of old-world features, such as a recessed floor behind the bar-the bartender peers up at you as he pours. A great place to sample a traditional B.A. grill menu, or to sip gancia con limón (a popular lemony Italian aperitif). Alcoholic drinks come with free munchies, like olives, and palitos-salty chip-like snacks made from wheat and corn.

DRINK

Calle Chile
Blocks between Calle Defensa and Avenida Paseo Colón
On summer evenings especially, locals and tourists alike cram the many sidewalk patios along this street. Its simple cafés and restaurants are known for their generous pitchers of beer. Ignore the slow service and soak up the scene.

DRINK

Gibraltar
Calle Perú 895, 011-54-11/4362-5310
A hip pub with excellent beers on tap, which are two for one 6 p.m.-10 p.m. And while you will always find a Brit somewhere on the premises, Argentines also enjoy this small slice of England. Great pub grub such as fish-and-chips, too.

DRINK

Plaza Dorrego
Prices at the cafés lining this historic square are marked up thanks to tourism. But as you sip your drink, watch tango, or listen to buskers, it's not hard to see why. European-style apartment buildings with wrought-iron balconies overlook the dramatic public space, and on summer nights the plaza erupts into one giant party.

SHOP

Paseo del 900 Calle Defensa 834
An indoor market that's a clutter of antique and jewelry vendors. Old Argentine posters and photos of icons like Che Guevara and Brigitte Bardot fill this veritable museum of memorabilia.

SHOP

San Telmo Sunday Fair
The antiques fair crowds Plaza Dorrego with nostalgia and romance. People come in search of old plates, costume jewelry, and knickknack collectibles. Strains of live tango provide the perfect soundtrack. Merchandise is almost always marked up at this tourist hub on Sundays; bartering recommended.

PLAY

Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso
Calle Defensa 1575, 011-54-11/4307-6506
A good bet for cheaper, less touristy tango performances. The cultural center has a varied schedule of music and dance performances. It also hosts milongas, or social events open to the public where tangueros of all levels come to practice their moves. Closed Mon.-Wed. $1.75-$6.25.

PLAY

Club Museum
Calle Perú 535, 011-54-11/4618-1670
A large, popular nightclub in a national historical monument. Finished in 1916, the former factory was constructed under the direction of Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame. The metal beams and balconies will remind you of his most well-known work. $7 for women, $8.70 for men, dinner included for $10 more.

SPLURGE

Michelangelo Catedral del Tango
Calle Balcarce 433, 011-54-11/4342-7007, michelangelotango.com
Fine Argentine cuisine and elaborate tango shows performed by top-notch dancers. The renovated stone warehouse evokes a pseudo-illicit theme. Step into the large cellar-like basement and you enter a romanticized version of tango's history in the bordellos, slums, and streets of B.A. Slightly touristy, but good fun. Thurs.-Sun., 8 p.m.-12 a.m. Dinner and show from $63/person.

PUERTO MADERO

This trendy walkway of restaurants in Buenos Aires's port is the place to be for porteños with thick wallets and fine palettes. The once rough-and-tumble dock has achieved full gentrification; it's now modernized, and brick buildings have been converted into restaurants and apartments. But there's still a budget find:

Siga La Vaca
Puerto Madero, Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714, 011-54-11/4315-6801
(Also in Recoleta: Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 6340, 011-54-11/4781-4704)
This chainlet has become an institution in Buenos Aires, and it's no wonder, with such plentiful quantities of good food and drink for next to nothing. Stuff yourself silly on all the salad and grilled meat you can eat (beef, pork, chicken), plus get a dessert and your choice of a bottle of wine or a pitcher of soda or beer for $8.30.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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Car Rentals
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You won't always save by bringing the rental car back early. Alamo has an early-return policy at all of its locations, designed to discourage customers from returning cars early. If you show up at the lot a day or two ahead of schedule, Alamo will recalculate what you owe them at the daily rate; if it turns out to be less than what you would have paid for the week, they'll charge a $15 fee. Yet another reason to read the fine print on your contract carefully!

— Beth Ann Finster
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Hotels
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I was heading to the hotel ice machine when I noticed that our ice bucket was looking very tired and missing its disposable plastic liner. My solution: the shower cap that we never use anyway. In fact, it actually worked better than the liner bag because the elastic band held it in place around the top of the bucket.

— Susan Swickard
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Technology
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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
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Rental Cars
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I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

— Jeff Mishur
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My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins
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Planning
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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

— Michele Graves
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To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

— Patricia LaRock
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A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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Technology
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Priceline was a total pig in a poke for me, so I never used the web site, until I found out about biddingfortravel.com. This helpful Web site gives potential bidders an idea of prices that are being accepted (and declined) on priceline.com for particular dates and properties (or airfares or car rentals). I got the Hyatt Regency Miami for $35 per night because of this!

— C. Sue Mecham
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Shopping
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Cruises
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Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Transportation
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Air Travel
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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If you arrive in a foreign city after banking hours (and you can't use an ATM), convert only the money you'll need for the night. Some exchange booths offer a less favorable rate after banks close and then switch back to competitive rates when banks reopen.

— Jim Citron
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Dining
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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

— Mario Gonzalez
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Hotels
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Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

— Audrey E. Vance
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Before I embark on a trip, I cover the dirt of my potted plants with plastic bags after watering them well. (Cut a few slits in the bags and keep plants out of direct sunlight.) The soil will stay damp for about three weeks.

— Jean Walsh
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Use an empty M&M's Minis tube to carry quarters. The top holds tightly, but still pops open easily enough, and the size is perfect to slip into a car door or bag. I find it very useful when traveling by car (for tolls and parking meters) and by airplane (for luggage carts or newspapers).

— Judi McDowell
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On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

— Anita Rivera
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Transportation
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A bike tour will offer a good introduction to a place, and you'll cover much more ground than if you were on foot. In Buenos Aires, for example, Lan & Kramer Bike Tours (biketours.com.ar) has a few guided itineraries that are fun for all ages and abilities.

— Meda Florin
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I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
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Air Travel
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I always try to work out before heading to the airport. It usually gets me tuckered out enough that I can relax and sleep on the plane. If I don't have time for pre-travel exercise, I take a brisk walk through the terminal before boarding or find a quiet spot in an empty gate for a little yoga.

— Kimberly Gilbert
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Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
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Air Travel
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We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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Hotels
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Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes to seal them together.

— Elisabeth Joyce
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Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
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When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

— Gina Beyer

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