SNAP GUIDE

Buenos Aires: Recoleta

B.A.'s most sophisticated and traditionally upper-class neighborhood. Apart from being the resting place of Evita Perón, Recoleta is also full of chic apartment buildings, boutiques, cafes and restaurants.

SEE

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires
Avenida Presidente Figueroa Alcorta 3415, 011-54-11/4808-6500, malba.org.ar
If you go to only one art museum in the city, MALBA should be the one. Opened in 2001, the state-of-the-art building houses 20th-century and contemporary art from all over Latin America. Exhibitions vary, but the permanent collection has more than 270 works, including masterpieces by Diego Rivera, Fernando Botero, and Antonio Berni. Open Thurs.-Mon., noon-8 p.m., $2.40. Free on Wed. from noon-9 p.m., students always free with ID. Closed Tues.

SEE

Plaza Francia
Avenida del Libertador and Avenida Pueyrredón
More of a grassy slope than a traditional "plaza," indie rock and reggae musicians congregate here on Sat. and Sun., while vendors hawk regional crafts, such as knives with handmade leather handles and traditional maté cups. Locals like to vegetate on the lawn and sip maté, weather permitting.

SEE

Recoleta Cemetery
Calle Junín 1760, 4803-1594
Eva Peron's surprisingly discreet family tomb has made the graveyard one of the most famous landmarks in B.A. There's a lot more to investigate, from ostentatious mausoleums to unkempt and eerie underground tombs with exposed coffins. Open daily 7 a.m.-5:45 p.m. Free.

EAT

Los Porteños
Avenida General Las Heras 2101, 4809-3548
An old-school, wood-paneled B.A. bistro a block away from the Recoleta Cemetery serving everything from cuts of grilled meat to pizza. It's perfect for dropping in any time of day or night. A good place for a morning coffee and to read up on regional news in the Buenos Aires Herald. Window signs feature the classic porteño rounded script. Open Mon.-Thurs. until 1:30 a.m., Fri.-Sat. until 7 a.m.

EAT

R.M. Ortiz
Opposite the main entrance to Recoleta Cemetery
The good restaurants that line this short street all have private terrace patios (a rarity in the neighborhood). The area is touristy, but between the great outdoor seating and plentiful grilled Argentine steaks ($8-10), you won't be sorry you made the trip.

SPLURGE

Au Bec Fin
Calle Vicente López 1827, 011-54-11/4807-3765, aubecfin.com.ar
A 1920s mansion restaurant that has an opulent, belle epoque dining room with crimson carpets and walls, and rounded settees. The crab-stuffed trout (trucha) or the chateaubriand beef with goat-cheese gratinée from the French-heavy menu are both superb. $16 for full lunch menu, around $40 for dinner.

DRINK

Milión
Calle Paraná 1048, 011-54-11/4815-9925, milion.com.ar
Taking up three stories of a converted mansion, this posh bar has high ceilings, high-backed armchairs, and engraved wood finishing. There's a long list of cocktails, and beers are $2. Seats in the candlelit garden are hard to come by in warm weather. Note: Bring the address with you; there are no signs for Milión on the street.

SHOP

Buenos Aires Design
Avenida Pueyrredón 2501, 011-54-11/5777-6000, designrecoleta.com.ar
Design aficionados love the mall at the northeast corner of Recoleta Cemetery. Visit and you could end up walking out with a leather folding chair or a tepee-like lamp made of metal rods. If you're not in the market to buy, it's worth going for its gorgeous balconies and cafés overlooking Plaza Francia.

SHOP

El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Avenida Santa Fe 1860, corner Avenida Callao, 011-54-11/4813-6052
Claims to be the largest bookstore in Latin America. For 80 years it was a majestic cinema/theater, aptly named the Grand Splendid. In 2000, it was renovated into a beautiful bookstore; its many titles and gold-gilt balconies make it a worthwhile visit for bookworms and cineastes alike. Most books are in Spanish, but there are some in English, French, and Portuguese.

SHOP

Patio Bullrich
Avenida del Libertador 750, 011-54-11/4814-7400
An elegant, upscale mall with marble floors, tall pillars, and lots of greenery. In addition to international brands like Cacharel and Dolce & Gabbana, you'll also find the best Argentine designers, such as Rapsodia, known for its bohemian chic.

PLAY

Mint Lounge
Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado and Avenida Sarmiento (Punta Carrasco), 011-54-11/4807-1010 A spacious, sleek club where the best features are the grand windows and the terrace overlooking the Plata River. DJs favor house music and the latest releases. Opens at 1 a.m. on Fri. and Sat. only. Cover from $5.20.

PLAY

Punta Carrasco
Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado and Avenida Sarmiento, 011-54-11/4807-1010, puntacarrasco.com.ar
Hit the upscale sports club for a dip if you can't take the South American heat. The river's-edge complex has three outdoor pools better suited for posing than swimming laps. Open daily 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Fri. $4.50, Sat. and Sun. $7.65.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Planning
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If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
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Hotels
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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Hotels
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Road Trips
374316

Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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Hotels
391324

Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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Photography
356262

When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

— Jamie Thomas
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Planning
338281

You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

— Ed Clancy
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Rental Cars
392349

I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

— Jeff Mishur
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Planning
347256

We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Cruises
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If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Air Travel
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If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Hotels
398306

Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

— Joan Nikelsky
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Planning
329251

My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
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Packing
344242

For overnight flights, pack a few Oral B Brush-Ups in your carry-on. Before the plane lands, you can "brush" your teeth, leaving you refreshed and ready for the day!

— Janice Pruitt Winfrey
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Packing
328285

I find that hotel bathrooms rarely have enough hangers and hooks for clothes and wet towels, so I always bring a few snap-lock suction hooks. (They function better than regular suction hooks because they're more secure and are therefore able to hold heavier items.) It's always nice to have a place to hang a bathrobe.

— Laura Tillman
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Packing
325265

I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
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Packing
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Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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Loyalty Programs
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Pay close attention to those newsletters enclosed in your frequent-flier statements. They usually contain special offers and promotions that can earn you double or triple miles if you stay at a certain hotel or eat at a certain restaurant.

— Kim Borisenko
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Packing
356260

Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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Packing
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In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

— Erica Rounsefell
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Hotels
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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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Packing
363286

Once the hotel shampoo bottles I always seem to bring home are empty, I refill them with my own brand of shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel--instead of buying travel-size containers at the drugstore. I toss them, along with other small items (toothbrush, toothpaste, nail file, pillboxes, and a comb), into a medium-size Ziploc bag, and I'm ready to go; the clear plastic lets me find things easily.

— Donna Cover
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Planning
345256

Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

— Eleanor Waterhouse
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Packing
341284

On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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Technology
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For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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Packing
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A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Air Travel
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When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
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Technology
354275

My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

— Maria B. Murad
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Safety
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In order to keep track of my bags, I use a small metal bell--the kind dancers from India wear on their ankles. I thread it with fishing line and tie it to my carry-on. If anyone touches my bag after I set it down, the bell chimes. It's not a very obtrusive sound, but it's distinctive enough for me to notice if a thief is trying to get into my things. The same bell can be hung on the doorknob inside your hotel room.

— Jim Hall
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Dining
348262

Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant

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