SNAP GUIDE

Sydney: Surry Hills & Waterloo

Up-and-coming neighborhoods crammed with art galleries, restaurants, and boutiques stocking designer homewares and fashions. Night owls flock to Oxford Street for the city's hottest bars.

SEE Belvoir St. Theatre
Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9699-3444, belvoir.com.au
The center of Sydney's theater scene. Founded in 1984 and now owned by high-profile investors, including Mel Gibson, Peter Carey, Sam Neill, and opera diva Dame Joan Sutherland. Performances are relocated to the nearby Seymour Centre (at the corner of City Rd. and Cleveland St., Chippendale) until renovations are completed in Aug. 2006. Tickets from $22.

EAT Billy Kwong
355 Crown St., Shop 3, Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9332-3300
One of the most coveted tables in town. Never mind that it's tiny and dimly lit, and that you'll perch on a plastic stool rather than a proper chair. Celebrity chef Kylie Kwong's funky Cantonese fare-crispy duck in blood-plum sauce-packs folks in nightly. Be prepared to wait: There are no reservations accepted. B.Y.O. wine only, $7 corkage fee per bottle.

EAT Cleveland Street
Between South Dowling St. and Crown St.
Sydney's cheapest and most authentic array of Indian restaurants. For the best curries, kebabs, and thalis (selection of little dishes), head to Holy Cow (No. 456, 011-61-2/9698-9220), Mehrey da Dhaba (No. 466, 011-61-2/9319-6260), and Maya Masala (No. 470, 011-61-2/9699-8663).

EAT Tabou
527 Crown St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9319-5682
Traditional bistro fare-steak frites, Gruyère soufflés-and a terrific wine list. White tablecloths, Gallic prints, and vintage posters on the walls. Daily specials are written on gilded mirrors. Dinner only Sat. and Sun, B.Y.O. wine only, Sun.-Thurs., $7.50 corkage fee.

EAT Longrain
85 Commonwealth St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/9280-2888, longrain.com.au
Excellent Thai fusion served at long, communal tables in another stylishly converted warehouse. If you can't get a seat, at least stop by the bar for one of its famous "stick drinks" (lethal concoctions of liquor and fruit mashed with a huge pestle). Lunch served weekdays, dinner Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun.

DRINK White Horse
381-385 Crown St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/8333-9900
The dingy old White Horse Hotel was overhauled and has recently reopened as a chic, two-level designer bar and brasserie. Bright Young Things like to be seen lounging on the roof terraces or chilling by the fireplace.

SHOP Fratelli Fresh
7 Danks St., Waterloo, 011-61-2/9699-3174
Local chefs shop for gorgeous fruits and veggies at this grocer-wholesaler before 10 a.m. Then, the public descends on the converted warehouse to snap up what's left of the fresh produce, as well as olive oils, roasted peppers, pastas, cheeses, and other Italian delicacies. A café, Sopra, recently opened upstairs.

SHOP Orson and Blake
483 Riley St., Surry Hills, 011-61-2/8399-2525, orsonandblake.com.au
The stylish set heads to O&B for hot housewares, brunch in the café, or cutting-edge fashion in the basement.

SHOP 2 Danks Street
1-2 Danks St., Waterloo, 2danksstreet.com.au
A collection of 10 contemporary art galleries under one roof, showcasing the work of rising Australian and international stars. Photography is particularly strong-Narelle Autio's glorious underwater images are highly collectible and Sarah Smuts Kennedy's ghostly works sell for around $3,000 each.

PLAY Oxford Street
Sydney's premier party strip bustles with action, most of it gay. For a taste of the local nightlife, visitors of any orientation can check out the Colombian (corner of Crown and Oxford sts., 011-61-2/9360-2152) and Gilligan's, a cocktail bar on the first floor of the Oxford Hotel (No. 134, 011-61-2/9331-3467).

ESCAPE Blue Mountains
Out to the west, the Blue Mountains are a spectacular backdrop to the city (1300-653-408 from within Australia only, bluemts.com.au, free). You can visit on a day trip; the Blue Mountains Line train from Central Station takes two hours to reach Katoomba (cityrail.nsw.gov.au, $17 round trip). From there, hop-on, hop-off bus tours will take you to the breathtaking Three Sisters lookout, the picturesque town of Leura (eat at Solitary, above the Leura Falls; solitary.com.au), and more than 27 area attractions (fantastic-aussie-tours. com.au, $22, or trolleytours.com.au, $9). Make sure you "rug up"-that's Australian for dress in layers-as the mountains are famous for their chilly climate.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Dining
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By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
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Packing
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A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Photography
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Accidentally reformat your camera's memory card? As long as you don't overwrite the disk by shooting more photos, those original pictures are still there. Buy another card to use in the meantime, and then, when you get home, either purchase a file-recovery software program (about $35) or take the card to a camera shop and see if someone there can help.

— Julie Mancini
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Planning
319267

I have the words "hotel" and "taxi" on my cell- phone speed dial. On a trip, I change the numbers, but leave the preprogrammed titles the same--instant access and no more little slips of paper everywhere.

— Isabel Burk
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Transportation
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In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
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Technology
400280

I used a well-known travel site to price tickets for a trip to Las Vegas. The flight I wanted was available, but I decided to wait to see if prices would come down. That flight stopped being listed after a week, and the next best flight kept getting more expensive. About five weeks later, I checked prices from a different PC. Whaddya know? The original flight was available, for $50 less than that next-best flight. That same evening I checked again from my PC. The flight I wanted was not available,so I deleted the cookies for the site and tried again. Voilà! The flight I wanted at the price I wanted. Moral of the story: Clean up your cookies—it could save you money!

— Kelly Malasics
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Packing
343253

I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

— Linda Smejkal
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Hotels
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Technology
373298

For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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Packing
351237

The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
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Hotels
399334

When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

— Paul Schnebelen
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Packing
369301

Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

— Joia Starks
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Family Travel
364278

Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
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Dining
363268

Using restaurant.com, you can buy gift certificates good at eateries in your destination city, regularly snagging (in my experience) $25 certificates for as little as $5 to $8.The site is awesome, and it works as well for restaurant certificates in your own city and for obtaining gifts for friends.

— Derrick Tennant
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Family Travel
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At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
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Planning
353268

If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
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Hotels
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Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

— Rachele Helphill
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Packing
372266

Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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Planning
351262

If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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Air Travel
367266

Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
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Planning
337268

Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

— Patricia Beagle
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Packing
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My husband cut an old contact lens case in two and uses the halves to carry his medication when we're traveling. He prefers them to regular pillboxes because lens cases are watertight and compact enough to carry inside a shirt pocket.

— Jean Holtmann
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Air Travel
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Just before I go through airport security, to save time and to avoid leaving something important behind, I collect all loose items--change, money clip, belt buckle, pens--in a large Ziploc bag. I send the bag through the X-ray machine with the rest of my luggage. After picking it up at the other end, I put the things back in place and either toss the bag or keep it for the return trip.

— Rodrigo Fernandez
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Family Travel
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It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

— Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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Hotels
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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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Air Travel
367245

We were told by an airport security official to tape a business card onto the cover of our laptop. Turns out he has an average of six laptop computers left behind each day! There are so many more procedures now--removing shoes, removing coats--that people forget when they send their laptop through in a separate bin. The official added that it's very difficult to return them because most laptops have passwords that keep the owners' personal information hidden.

— Liz Nealon
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Planning
343266

Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Planning
533561

Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Technology
386275

Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

— Perry Babel
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Planning
514563

While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

— Kimberly Morgan

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