SNAP GUIDE

Sydney: Paddington & Darlinghurst

Former working-class enclaves reborn as a yuppie and gay paradise. Paddington's Oxford Street is the shopping mecca; Darlinghurst's Victoria Street is the center of Sydney's café culture.

SEE Paddington Markets
Grounds of the Uniting Church, 395 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9331-2923, paddingtonmarkets.com.au
Sydney's oldest community market, founded in 1973. Browse at more than 250 stalls laden with jewelry, crafts, and an occasional tarot-card reader. Many of Australia's biggest fashion labels got their start here, including Third Millennium, Lisa Ho, Bracewell, and Paablo Nevada. Open Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

EAT Bills Café
433 Liverpool St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9360-9631
Casual, cheery spot famous for Bill Granger's heavenly breakfasts of scrambled eggs and ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter. Patrons sit at communal tables and flip through dailies and stacks of magazines.

EAT Bistro Lulu
257 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9380-6888, bistrolulu.com.au
Lively and romantic spot for beautifully cooked French dishes. Don't miss the chicken-liver parfait and poached pork fillets. Dinner daily, lunch weekdays. Licensed for wine except Sun. and Mon., when you can bring your own ($10 corkage fee).

EAT Fish Face
132 Darlinghurst Rd., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9332-4803
Sydney's best fish, all line-caught (no nets) and simply prepared. Arrive early to score one of only six tables. Reservations are accepted for seatings between 6:30 p.m.-7 p.m. After that, it's a free-for-all. B.Y.O. beer only.

EAT Tropicana Caffe
227 Victoria St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9360-9809
Huge salads, filling pastas, and first-rate coffee. Best known as the birthplace of Tropfest, one of the world's largest short-film festivals (tropfest.com): Judges whittle down 600 entries to 16 finalists, and on one Sunday each February the chosen films are screened outdoors for free (check website for schedule).

SPLURGE Buon Ricordo
108 Boundary St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9360-6729
Top chefs from across the city make a beeline to this 18-year-old Sydney institution for a taste. Chef Armando Percuoco's signature dish is fettuccine al tartufovo, or truffled egg pasta. It's prepared at the table, with nothing but cream, Parmesan, pepper, eggs, and truffles. Spectacular service and an extensive wine list don't hurt either. Closed Sun. and Mon.

DRINK Middle Bar
383-387 Bourke St., Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9331-3100, kinselas.com.au
The slick, first-floor bar overlooking perennially busy Taylor Square used to be a funeral parlor. DJs spinning wicked tunes attract a mixed straight and gay crowd.

DRINK The Victoria Room
235 Victoria St. Level 1, Darlinghurst, 011-61-2/9357-4488
The decor is bo-co (bohemian-colonial, with brocade sofas, velvet chaise lounges, lazy ceiling fans, and flourishing palm trees) and the crowd a little pretentious. The innovative cocktails-the ginger and lemongrass martini, for one-steal the show. Afternoon tea served Sat., 4 p.m.-6 p.m., and Sun., 2 p.m.-4 p.m. From $20.

SHOP Sass & Bide
4/132 Oxford St., Paddington, 011-61-2/9360-3900, sassandbide.com
The flagship store of this well-known Australian label has all the deconstructed couture women crave, from tiny ra-ra skirts to ruffled mock-Edwardian fancies.

SHOP Tsubi
16 Glenmore Rd., Paddington, 011-61-2/9361-6291
The menswear answer to Sass & Bide: distinctive clothing that's part surfer, part rocker, part dandy.

PLAY Centennial Parklands
Corner of Oxford and Lang rds., Paddington, cp.nsw.gov.au
The 480 acres are filled with joggers, cyclists, skaters, picnickers, and horseback riders every day of the week. In the summer months, the outdoor Moonlight Cinema screens classics and the latest releases (moonlight.com.au, tickets $11).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Photography
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Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
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Family Travel
358267

When traveling with your kids, give each child his or her own small carry-on bag. Fill it with new, surprise treats to occupy the downtime--layovers, long flights, time in hotels--as well as a few familiar items from home. Include a notebook and encourage your child to keep a travel diary.

— Joan White
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Planning
346257

My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
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Hotels
430322

Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
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Photography
358275

I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
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Family Travel
381247

If you're on a road trip with young children and you're looking for a place to let them blow off some steam, check out the playgrounds at local elementary schools. They almost always have equipment that your children will love to explore. It will also give everyone in the family a welcome chance to stretch their legs.

— Heather Fitzgerald
Tagged
Photography
433606

Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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Planning
345267

I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

— Christine Size
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Car Rentals
344258

Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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Cruises
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Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

— Sallie Clinard
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Museums
366275

If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

— Alice M. Solovy
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Hotels
414321

On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

— Anita Rivera
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Shopping
355261

If you plan to buy crafts in a country where bargaining is expected, use the time it takes for luggage to be unloaded to scope out the airport stores. Jot down items you like and their retail prices. If you find a similar item while touring the country, you have a top-end bargaining point. If you don't find the object at a better price, you can always pick it up at the airport while you're waiting for your flight home.

— Deborah Seter
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Air Travel
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Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

— Sherill Hacker
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Packing
408585

Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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Packing
362235

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Packing
364266

Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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Packing
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A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
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Technology
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Download the most up-to-date airline schedules from the individual airline Web sites to your PDA before you leave home. Should you encounter a delay or cancellation at the airport, you'll have all the information needed to find another flight quickly.

— Neal Green
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Loyalty Programs
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Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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Packing
335239

If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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Air Travel
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We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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Planning
337263

Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

— Glenda McMurray
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Dining
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Deli counters in grocery stores are great mealtime alternatives to restaurants or fast-food fare when you're exploring the United States. The food is fresh, there's a big variety (hot and cold), and economically, it's a great break. I recently had a complete hot meal, including beverage, for $3 from a grocery-store deli.

— Teresa G. Barcus
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Photography
375267

When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

— Jamie Thomas
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Packing
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Lightweight, washable, and multifunctional, a cotton sarong is an easy and practical addition to every traveler's don't-leave-home-without-it bag! I've used mine as a swimsuit cover-up, as a picnic blanket on the grounds of a château in the Loire Valley, as a temporary skirt (over my shorts) in a Bangkok temple, and as an extra pillow while hiking the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It's also handy as an airplane blanket, emergency towel, or tablecloth.

— Nicole Serafica
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Shopping
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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Photography
357265

Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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Planning
363257

Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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Cruises
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Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman

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