SNAP GUIDE

Sydney: Kings Cross & Potts Point

High life and low life coexist in this happening peninsula east of the city. Glam homes, bars, and restaurants brush up against Sydney's sleazy side.

SEE Elizabeth Bay House
7 Onslow Ave., 011-61-2/9356-3022, hht.net.au/museums
Once described as "the finest house in the colony," this small museum-originally built between 1835 and 1839 as a home for colonial secretary Alexander Macleay-offers intriguing insights into the early days of English settlement in Sydney. Furnishings are from the period 1839-1845. Closed Mon. $5.30.

EAT Fratelli Paradiso
12-16 Challis Ave., 011-61-2/9357-1744
A busy neighborhood trattoria that does the best fried calamari in town-simply battered, golden, and meltingly tender. The no-reservations policy translates to perpetual lines, but the quick turnover keeps waits under half an hour.

EAT Simmone Logue
21 Elizabeth Bay Rd., 011-61-2/9358-2600, simmonelogue.com
On the ground floor of a smart city apartment block, this is the place to be for "Sunday roast"-a traditional Australian meal of lamb, chicken, beef, or pork (or whatever the chef decides that day), served with crispy potatoes, peas, pumpkin, and carrots, and plenty of rich, thick gravy, as well as pudding and wine. B.Y.O. wine only, $10 corkage fee per bottle.

EAT Spring Espresso Bar
65 Macleay St., Shop 1, 011-61-2/9331-0190
So cramped it's almost uncomfortable, but people flock here anyway for a weekend brunch of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. The outside tables are less claustrophobic.

EAT Otto
6 Cowper Wharf Rd., 011-61-2/9368-7488, otto.net.au
Fine Italian dining by the waterfront, with wines and service to match. The city's elite come to dine in sun-drenched splendor on exquisite pastas and memorable desserts, such as shortbread with mascarpone, strawberries, and Ligurian honey. First-class people-watching, too. (Russell Crowe lives at the end of the wharf.)

DRINK Barons
5 Roslyn St., 011-61-2/9358-6131
Seedy old Kings Cross may be gentrifing, but this bar hasn't changed a lick. Tacky decor, cheap drinks, open all night.

DRINK Lotus
22 Challis Ave., 011-61-2/9326-0488, merivale.com/lotus
A small but perfectly formed bistro that's part of the burgeoning Hemmes family empire (CBD Hotel, Establishment, Slip Inn, et al.). Its tiny, shiny bar with snakeskin-padded walls serves fine cocktails, including a Rat Pack of martinis (like the Frank and the Dino).

DRINK Water Bar
W Hotel, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd., 011-61-2/9331-9000, starwoodhotels.com
Consistently voted Sydney's best watering hole. It has a unique old-meets-new ambience. The hotel is housed in a former dockside warehouse, with soaring wooden ceilings; glass elevators ferry guests to the rooms, and drinkers recline on sleek divans.

SHOP Il Papiro
87A Macleay St., 011-61-2/9361-6252, ilpapirofirenze.it
The antipodean outpost of an upscale Florentine stationer known for divine marbleized diaries and notepaper with signature feather designs.

PLAY Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool
1C Mrs. Macquaries Rd., The Domain Sydney 2000, 011-61-2/9358-6686, abcpool.org
Named after a swimming legend from the 1920s. Its location-above Woolloomooloo Bay-ensures it's constantly packed. Open 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Oct. 1-Apr. 30. $3.90.

ESCAPE Royal National Park
011-61-2/9542-0648, nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
The world's second-oldest national park after Yellowstone. The terrain-crisscrossed by myriad trails-varies from bushland to rain forest, craggy coastlines to tranquil riverbanks. And it's easy to reach: Take a train to Cronulla (cityrail.nsw. gov.au, about $6.60 round trip), then catch the National Parks Service's ferry to Bundeena (011-61-2/9523-2990, $7.30 round trip). $7.50 day pass for car, free otherwise.

TIP: Aboriginal Art One of the world's oldest peoples, Aborigines arrived in Australia nearly 50,000 years ago from southeast Asia and fanned out, developing more than 250 regional languages as well as rich, spiritually infused artistic traditions. Today, Sydney's indigenous population numbers over 30,000, and many continue their time-honored crafts. Perennial souvenir favorites include the boomerang-originally used for hunting and fire-making-and the didgeridoo, a wind instrument created from a log hollowed out by termites. Carved and painted emu eggs, bark paintings and dot paintings of animals and plants, woven baskets, and sculptures of creator-beings are also popular. Be aware that opportunistic dealers in fake and illegally appropriated art run rampant. Stick to community arts-and-crafts centers and to galleries owned, operated, or supported by Aborigines, and do some research before you buy (mq.edu.au/house_of_aboriginality).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Packing
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I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Photography
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I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo
Tagged
Photography
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
Tagged
Planning
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I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

— Christine Size
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Technology
382292

Don't put your magnetic sunglass clip-ons in the same pocket as your mass transit fare cards or hotel key cards. I managed to erase both my subway pass and my hotel key on a recent trip.

— Jim Tichenor
Tagged
Planning
350241

Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
Tagged
Packing
366251

Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
Tagged
Hotels
415348

If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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Packing
357268

During the hot months of summer, I plan to travel with a very small spray bottle. I'll fill it with water and use it as a mister to keep cool. I got this idea when we stayed at the Noga Hilton in Cannes. On the dresser was a pink aerosol can full of Evian water. I took it with us sightseeing and, wow, it was so refreshing to spritz water on our faces.

— Joy Shebroe
Tagged
Packing
342259

My husband and I are retired, and we take two trips abroad each year. When unpacking, I put items we use repeatedly on each trip (flashlight, alarm clock, travel-size toiletries, etc.) into a box and keep it stored near the suitcases. No more searching or trying to remember if I've got everything for the next journey—it's all in one place.

— Mary Meikle
Tagged
Hotels
433309

If you plan to leave a gratuity for hotel staff, follow our friend Phil's good advice: Give it at the beginning of your vacation, not at the end. He introduces himself to the housekeepers early in the trip and hands them a nice tip. Guess who always has plenty of coffee and fresh towels?

— Lou Stover
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Dining
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By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
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Air Travel
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I was booking tickets online for an upcoming flight to Europe from the East Coast. One particularly attractive fare was offered on a U.S. airline as well as on its foreign "partner airline." Same plane, same flight, same base price. But it was more than $100 cheaper per ticket to book with the foreign airline versus the U.S.one. We saved more than $400 for four tickets, but we'll be on the same plane!

— Lori Uhl
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Transportation
344247

Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

— Dana Hunting
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Technology
386269

Check out worldclimate.com to find monthly average temperatures and rainfall for thousands of cities worldwide. You can avoid countries during their rainy seasons, and the information is useful for figuring out what to pack.

— Elizabeth Bass
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Packing
369236

I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
Tagged
Hotels
434349

I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Planning
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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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Packing
346289

Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
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Shopping
342266

Anyone tired of the same boring postcards that are found at every roadside tourist trap should try shopping for vintage postcards at an antiques shop. They're a great addition to any photo album, as they often show what the local attractions looked like prior to development.

— Christian Galloway
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Planning
321269

I have the words "hotel" and "taxi" on my cell- phone speed dial. On a trip, I change the numbers, but leave the preprogrammed titles the same--instant access and no more little slips of paper everywhere.

— Isabel Burk
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Planning
341265

If you arrive in a foreign city after banking hours (and you can't use an ATM), convert only the money you'll need for the night. Some exchange booths offer a less favorable rate after banks close and then switch back to competitive rates when banks reopen.

— Jim Citron
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Technology
375294

When seeking a cheap airfare, don't forget to consult the Web sites of the major charter tour operators--like Apple Vacations, TNT Vacations, Vacation Express, or SunTrips--which frequently sell air-only tickets in addition to air-and-hotel packages. Doing so helped me slash the cost of round-trip airfare to visit my mother in Las Vegas by well over 50 percent.

— Pam McMenamin
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Technology
374273

When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

— Mina Camera
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Air Travel
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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
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Shopping
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Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

— Stacy Shaw
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Packing
337254

Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

— Ed Wilhite
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Shopping
367254

Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
Tagged
Hotels
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Planning
345272

Some international airlines still give passengers a goody bag that includes a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks for the flight. Keep those socks: They're handy when visiting temples in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, where you must remove your shoes before entering. I slipped on the socks and my feet stayed both clean and warm!

— Nancy Easterbrook

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