Shut Up and Ski

The latest ski resort trends--ritzy spas, slopeside boutiques--have nothing to do with why you head to the mountains in the first place. America's top 10 old-school ski resorts, where lift tickets max out at $52

UTAH
POWDER MOUNTAIN

Elevation: 8,900 feet
Vertical drop: 2,005 feet
Skiable terrain: 5,500 acres
Annual snowfall: 500 inches
Lift ticket: $45 or less
Info: 801/745-3772, powdermountain.com

At Powder Mountain, Utah, snowcats tow skiers and boarders into the backcountry for $7 a run (Craig Wetherby) FEBRUARY 2006 ISSUE • Table of Contents • Secret Hotels of Costa Rica • Europe on the Quick: A Long Weekend in Stockholm • Pacific Coast Highway • Trip Coach: Spain, Portugal, and the Azores • Shut Up and Ski • 40 Best Vacations

With monster snowfalls, a remarkable lack of trees, and slopes that are consistently steep but not harrowing, Powder was created for wide skis. Less than half of the trails are groomed, and it's not unusual to be making turns in untouched powder a week after a dump. For the poor man's version of heli-skiing, a snowcat that tows skiers up to the top of remote bowls can't be beat ($7 per run, in addition to a lift ticket). Even with all the terrain and outstanding snow, Powder remains under the radar compared to hotter resorts, such as Park City, Snowbird, or nearby Snowbasin (which figured prominently in the Salt Lake City Olympics). Down below Powder is gorgeous Ogden Valley. It's only a matter of time before strip malls and subdivisions fill it up, but for now the valley is mostly open land.

How to get there

Powder Mountain is a straightforward, 55-mile drive north of the Salt Lake airport. You'll pass through Eden, so save a few bucks on your lift ticket by buying it at the Valley Market (801/745-4000).

Where to stay

The Red Moose Lodge is a modern take on a vintage ski lodge, with vaulted ceilings, deep leather sofas, and a pool table in a loft. Rooms are big, and it's less than 15 minutes from the mountain (2547 N. Valley Junction Dr., Eden, 866/996-6673, theredmooselodge.com, from $79). Moreover, it's just down the street from Eats of Eden, a fantastic little restaurant with buffalo burgers and sandwiches on homemade bread (2595 N. Hwy. 162, 801/745-8618). Another good spot for a bite: The Oaks, which opened in 1907 and has a menu that always features Ogden's own Farr's ice cream (750 Ogden Canyon, 801/394-2421).

Après-ski

Built in 1879, the Shooting Star Saloon survived Prohibition by running a whiskey distillery in the basement. Today, it's the oldest bar in Utah and serves only beer. Drink specials are illegal in Utah, but who needs happy hour when a cold one costs only $1.25? After a long day at the mountain, see if you can survive the $6 Star Burger, a grilled Polish sausage sandwiched between two beef patties (7350 E. 200 South, Huntsville, 801/745-2002).

Local's tip

"The place is huge and can be hard to figure out," says Amy Wicks, who was born and raised in the area and skis at least twice a week. "I definitely recommend a free guided tour with a host to take you out and show you the layout. There's a lot you might miss if all you did was look up at the mountain from the lodge." (To hook up with a host, contact Powder Mountain.)

VERMONT
BURKE