SNAP GUIDE

Tokyo: Ueno, Asakusa, Yanaka

All three northern areas have traditional houses, markets, and tiny streets characteristic of shitamachi (the old downtown).

SEE Nezu Shrine
Nezu 1-28-9, 011-81-3/3822-0753, nedujinja.or.jp
A long winding tunnel of sacred orange torii gates marks the entrance to this peaceful shrine--one of the oldest in Tokyo. Well off the tourist track. Follow the English signs outside the Nezu Station on the Chiyoda Line.

SEE Scai the Bathhouse
Yanaka 6-1-23, 011-81-3/3821-1144, scaithebathhouse.com
Works by the hottest contemporary artists, both foreign and local, are on view in this beautiful gallery in a former public bathhouse. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Senso-ji Temple and its backstreets
Asakusa 2-3-1, 011-81-3/3842-0181
Tokyo's most popular Buddhist temple attracts thousands of people every day, many of whom buy 'fortune slips' there in hopes of receiving good luck. If the fortune is negative, they just tie the slip of paper onto one of the poles outside to let the wind carry the bad luck away. Others come to waft incense smoke over their bodies as a cure for ailments. A wander around the surprisingly quiet backstreets provides glimpses of tranquil gardens, ponds filled with koi, and smaller, quieter shrines.

SEE Ueno Park
JR Ueno Station Park Exit
Site of some of the city's best museums and galleries, such as the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and National Science Museum, as well as a large proportion of Japan's homeless. It is also the place to come for cherry-blossom viewing in spring, when it's taken over by revelers with beer and portable karaoke machines.

EAT Edo Monja Hyotan
Asakusa 1-37-4 (opposite Ryokan Shigetsu), 011-81-3/3841-0589, asakusa.24663.com
Cook-it-yourself monja yaki may not be a feast for the eyes, but it's surprisingly delicious. Just toss your choice of seafood, vegetable, and meat with a batter made from flour and dashi broth (usually made from fish) and throw the mixture on the hotplate in the middle of the table (the expert staff can help). The place itself is nondescript, but the boisterous crowds and good food make it fun.

EAT Funawa
Asakusa 1-22-10, 011-81-3/3842-2781
A small café upstairs serves tea and Japanese sweets, such as marble-size ankodama made from bean paste. The real star is the tasty (and very bright) green tea soft-serve ice cream sold at the take-out window. For the less adventurous, there's also vanilla. Just look for the line.

SHOP Sample Shop Maiduru
Nishi Asakusa 1-5-17, 011-81-3/3843-1686, maiduru.co.jp
Lifelike food souvenirs--plastic dumplings, yakitori skewers, and sushi--for the folks back home.

PLAY Momidokoro Rakuya
Asakusa 1-32-11, 011-81-3/5830-0595
A relaxing shiatsu center. This traditional form of massage uses the body's pressure points and meridians to relieve stiffness and promote healing. Wonderful wood and stone footbaths provide a bit of extra pampering for weary feet. All massage rooms are private. Some English spoken. Note: There's no English sign, so ask directions. $19 for a 20-minute massage.

SPLURGE Ebisuya Rickshaws
Departs from across the Senso-ji Temple main entryway, 011-81-3/5806-8881, ebisuya.com
Sit back in a plush rickshaw and let your driver pull you through the lesser-known streets of historic Asakusa. The English-speaking guides are very knowledgeable. Two people per rickshaw. $35 per person for a 30-minute ride.

Summer in the City
In the summer, Tokyo becomes a city of street festivals, many of which are topped off by incredible fireworks. The city's biggest and most anticipated display is the Sumida River Hanabi Taikai, on the last Saturday night in July.

ESCAPE Kamakura
A statue of the awe-inspiring Great Buddha (Daibutsu) gazes over the lovely coastal town of Kamakura, home to ancient temples and peaceful shrines. Dousing your yen in sacred spring water at the Zeniarai-Benten shrine is said to bring prosperity. JR trains regularly depart Tokyo's Ebisu, Shibuya, and Shinjuku stations for Kamakura. Rides take about one hour. $8 each way from Tokyo and Shinjuku stations.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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If you're divorced and plan to travel out of the country with your children, check the legal requirements in advance. When I tried to take my kids to Cancun, I learned too late that Mexico requires a notarized letter of consent signed by both parents for minors traveling alone or with one parent or guardian. If the parents are divorced, a copy of the parental custody agreement is allowed instead. The airlines enforce this rule before you get on the plane.

— Marge Stratton
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Cruises
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Some cruise lines offer discounts on a future sailing if you book it while on a current cruise. Back home, you can transfer the booking to your travel agent and work with them to try to lower the price even further. You'll be able to cancel your booking at no cost if you follow the cruise line's cancellation schedule. This is a great way to get some of your onboard expenses paid for in advance.

— Jeff Putel
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Packing
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Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

— Meredith McCulloch
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We're active travelers but find guided bike tours from companies like Backroads too expensive. Our advice: After rolling into town, ask at a bike shop for the best routes. Better yet, call or e-mail before you leave home (search the Web). We've found group rides and races this way, and have made a lot of friends. We're instant locals!

— Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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Shopping
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
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Family Travel
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Put toys within kids' reach on road trips. Hang a shoe organizer on the back of the passenger seat so children can keep stuffed animals, books, and games organized in the pockets. Having everything close at hand may help prevent meltdowns along the way.

— Jennifer Casasanto
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Air Travel
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If your flight is canceled, don't just wait patiently in line to be booked on another flight; call the airline's 800 number. They'll answer your call faster, and you won't be waiting with other stranded passengers from that flight. (Or cover all bases by calling while in line.)

— Karen LoPresto-Arbaugh
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Packing
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My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins
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Safety
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I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
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You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

— Ed Clancy
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Cruises
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Most cruise lines offer certain drinks for free--juice, lemonade, iced tea, coffee, milk, tea-but you'll have to pay for soda. If you're a caffeine addict, pack a bottle or two. Unlike on a plane, you won't have to worry about paying for the added weight.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Cruises
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We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
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Hotels
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On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

— Michele Chico
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Cruises
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Planning
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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

— Joyce Barbatti
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Planning
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Planning
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Save major bucks by going onto eBay and purchasing coupons and gift certificates that others don't want or can't use for lodging, transportation, food, and admissions. I've found great discounts for airline and Amtrak tickets; car rentals; entrance to amusement parks such as SeaWorld, Disney, or Universal Studios; as well as overnights at many hotels. For example, I bought a $30 savings coupon at SeaWorld for only $1. Simply search for your destination and then type in "coupon" or "gift certificate."

— Nathaniel V. Greenwood
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Packing
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I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Packing
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Once the hotel shampoo bottles I always seem to bring home are empty, I refill them with my own brand of shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel--instead of buying travel-size containers at the drugstore. I toss them, along with other small items (toothbrush, toothpaste, nail file, pillboxes, and a comb), into a medium-size Ziploc bag, and I'm ready to go; the clear plastic lets me find things easily.

— Donna Cover
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Cruises
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
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You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Packing
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Hotels
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I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

— Louisa Elder
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Photography
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Accidentally reformat your camera's memory card? As long as you don't overwrite the disk by shooting more photos, those original pictures are still there. Buy another card to use in the meantime, and then, when you get home, either purchase a file-recovery software program (about $35) or take the card to a camera shop and see if someone there can help.

— Julie Mancini
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We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Safety
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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

— Denise Crocker
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Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

— Marc Oppy
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Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

— Gail Moriarty
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Solo Travel
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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr

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