CAP D'ANTIBES

La Jabotte
Adorable is the only way to describe this one-story villa with its three bungalows clustered around a garden shaded by orange trees. Though lacking A/C and not at all luxurious, each of the 10 smallish rooms has been decorated in a manner that's usually reserved for high-class accommodations--rich colors on the walls, original artwork (including paintings by one of the owners), and imaginative choices of furniture and fixtures. Some rooms have distinct themes: birds, calligraphy, angels. Breakfast receives equal attention: The orange juice is fresh-squeezed, the jam homemade. It can be taken in the courtyard or in the entry/lobby, which resembles a cross between a living room and a crafts boutique; paintings and ceramics here are nearly all for sale. Though the hotel is in a quiet residential neighborhood, the beach is only 60 yards away, and Old Antibes is an easy walk. 13 avenue Max Maurey, 011-33/4-93-61-45-89, jabotte.com, doubles with breakfast $101-$118, closed the last three weeks of November and Christmas week.

PLAN-DE-LA-TOUR

Hotel le Mas des Brugassieres
The most stressful thing about staying here is pronouncing the name. Once you've managed that (broo-gah-si-ehr), it's simply a matter of throwing your luggage on the hand-quilted boutis bedspread, freshening up in the large bathroom, and heading out to the hammock. Nine twisty miles inland from the glorious madness of Saint-Tropez, the low-key hotel is in the Massif des Maures, a sparsely populated region of low mountains, scrubby pine forests, and an occasional vineyard. The two-story hotel is based on a classic Provencal mas, or house; each of the 14 comfortable rooms has a private entrance and a terrace with table and chairs. All but three rooms have A/C. Take breakfast on your terrace or next to the pool shaded by olive trees. (Breakfast is mandatory in high season, which raises the rate by $10 per person.) Biking, hiking, and horseback riding are all available nearby; the beaches of Sainte-Maxime are eight kilometers away. Route de Grimaud, 011-33/4-94-55-50-55, mas-des-brugassieres.com, doubles $114, closed mid-October to late March.

LE LAVANDOU

Azur Hotel
The hotel sits atop a hill behind the tiny beach resort of Cavaliere, and every room enjoys a view that includes Cavaliere Bay and the Hyeres Islands. The 24 rooms are very simple and bungalow-like, but cozy, and each has a private entrance and terrace. There's no A/C, but a refreshing breeze comes in off the sea. You can walk down to the beach in a matter of minutes, but the last stretch back up is a killer. Driving is an easier option--or just stay on the premises and paddle around in the pool. It'd be a shame to miss the beaches around here, however, as they're some of the best on the coast. Less frequented than the more developed areas near Cannes and Nice, this stretch of the Riviera has smaller crowds, golden beaches, and crystal-clear water. Domaine de l'Aragail, 011-33/4-94-01-54-54, lelavandou.com/azur-hotel, doubles $80-$98, closed mid-October to March.

SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT

Hotel Brise Marine
On this terribly exclusive peninsula, where most homes have gates and names like Lotus or Mon Plaisir, a room rate that's less than your monthly salary is a true bargain. Amazingly, this gorgeous Italianate villa, just steps from town and around the corner from the prettiest beach, is relatively reasonable. Dating from 1878, the seaside mansion is encircled by a beautiful garden filled with palm, orange, and lemon trees, and bougainvillea; its various patios and terraces look out on the bright blue bay, the cliffs of the coastline, and, in the distance, Monaco and the Italian Alps. The 18 rooms are simply furnished with modern furniture and the occasional family armoire, but many share the amazing view, and a few have spacious balconies. Many of the guests have been coming here for years, some even for decades. "We've grown old together," says longtime owner Yves Maîtrehenry, who can be found on the premises with his wife, as well as various children and grandchildren. 58 avenue Jean Mermoz, 011-33/4-93-76-04-36, hotel-brisemarine.com, doubles $168-$187, closed November--January.

AND IF OUR TOP CHOICES ARE ALL BOOKED UP . . .

Menton

Hotel Paris-Rome: A family affair. Pleasant rooms, next to the water and near beaches. A 15-minute walk into town. 011-33/4-93-35-73-45, paris-rome.com, $83-$135.

Hotel Aiglon: Old mansion converted into an atmospheric, if stodgy, hotel. Lots of antiques, some frayed carpets, beautiful architectural details, and a pool. The bar/salon is right out of the belle epoque. 011-33/4-93-57-55-55, hotelaiglon.net, $123-$175.