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Dubai: Just Add Money

In 15 years, Dubai has gone from a backwater refueling stop to a playpen for the rich, thanks to one of the grandest building schemes that the modern world has ever seen. But is there any reason for normal people to visit?
By Kimberley Sevcik, February 2007 issue |

"You're going to wave at me, Beatrice, right?" her mother asked, in anticipation of her daughter's starring role. Beatrice waved and beamed and wriggled around happily. On the monitor before her, the mother could see Beatrice sitting on the carpet, which appeared to be whizzing through the air, weaving among glass-and-steel towers in a virtual-reality tour of Dubai. People began to gather around to watch lovely little Beatrice and wave at her. Beatrice gamely waved back. More people gathered, until there was a crowd of about 30 pressing in on her, laughing at the spectacle of Beatrice zooming around the city on a carpet.

Then Beatrice stopped smiling. Her tiny, perfect features warped and contracted, and she began to cry. "Keep waving, sweetie!" encouraged her mother from the sidelines. "You're all right!" But Beatrice had had it with the waving. She had had it with the music and the vibrating carpet ride and the laughing crowd. She scooted herself toward the edge of the carpet. "Be careful, darling!" her mother yelled.

At Ski Dubai, two hours of indoor skiing, including the clothing and gear, costs only $38 (Sue Parkhill) [enlarge photo]

On the screen, we watched Beatrice clamber off the carpet and disappear. And then there was only the magic carpet, zooming emptily through the skyscrapers of Dubai.

Lodging

  • Arabian Courtyard Al Fahidi St., Bur Dubai, 011-971/4-351-9111, arabiancourtyard.com; from $95 (high season $215; deals can be found online)
  • Food

  • Toscana Souk Madinat Jumeirah Mall, Al Mina, 011-971/4-366-8888, risotto $13
  • Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, 011-971/4-301-7438, burj-al-arab.com, Regular afternoon tea $61
  • Thai Kitchen Park Hyatt Dubai, 011-971/4-602-1234, fish in banana leaf $5
  • Blue Barjeel Al Ghubaiba Rd., Bur Dubai, 011-971/4-353-2200
  • Shahrzad Hyatt Regency Dubai, 011-971/4-209-1234, chicken polo $20
  • Basta Art Café Bastakiya Quarter, Bur Dubai, 011-971/4-353-5071, cappuccino $3
  • Activities

  • Ski Dubai Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Rd., New Dubai, 011-971/4-409-4000, skidxb.com, $38 for two hours' skiing
  • Heritage Village Al Shindagha Rd., 011-971/4-393-7151, dubaitourism.ae
  • Danat Dubai Cruises Bur Dubai, opp. British Embassy, 011-971/4-351-1117, danatdubaicruises.com, $18
  • Oriental Hammam One & Only Royal Mirage Hotel, Al Sufuoh Rd., Jumeirah, 011-971/4-399-9999, oneandonlyresorts.com
  • Lama Desert Tours Al Sayegh Building, Oud Mehta Rd., 011-971/4-334-4330, lamadubai.com, $67
  • Ibn Battuta Mall Sheikh Zayed Rd., New Dubai, 011-971/4-362-1900, ibnbattutamall.com
  • Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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