Eleni Gage, author of North of Ithaka, answers your questions about planning a trip to the Greek Isles.
Southborough, MA: We're going to Greece Sept. 10-23, taking a tour, land and two islands. Could you recommend interesting places to eat in Mykonos, Santorini, Kusadasi, and Athens? We particularly love seafood.
Eleni Gage: On Mykonos Caprice Sea Satin has a great setting and delicious food and is very lively but it's a definite splurge! A more affordable, superdelicious spot is the nameless taverna on Agios Sostis beach, halfway up the hillside between the monastery and the sea. In Santorini, a lot of places in Oia are great. Oia Cafe has a delicious shrimp dish in ouzo sauce. For a casual meal, the last taverna (there are three) to the left when you walk down the stairs to the harbor is great. And a good place to watch the sunset is the bar at Fanari Villas--if you can find it! I don't know of an spots on Kusadasi, but in Athens I love Filoistron (filoistron.gr), Mamacas (mamacas.gr), Alatsi (behind the Hilton) for Cretan food. All of those are affordable and so much fun, and Filoistron has great views.
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Memphis, TN: Hi! I will be traveling to the Greek Isles with 8 other people on Saturday (May 5) for 12 days. Since this is still the off-season, do you think we need to make advance reservations, or can we just show up and find something? We are planning to go to Mykonos, Santorini, and Paros. We would prefer budget accomodations to nicer resorts. Thanks!
Whitney
Eleni Gage: It is early in the season, so I think you can wing it without too much trouble. But you might want to email ahead to see if you can get good deals on expensive places since it is so early (and a great time to go, by the way). On Santorini, try to stay in Oia--it's the prettiest spot, although Firostefani is nice too (but quieter). And in this month's Budget Travel there's a piece I wrote on the Secret Hotels of Paros and Antiparos--that should help there, but since the places are small, it couldn't hurt to book ahead.
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Oak Creek, WI: For those of us who only speak English, would it be difficult to navigate and communicate with the people on Santorini? I have been wanting to go to that island for a long time. If I were to go to two islands on the same trip, which one do you recommend as a companion to Santorini? We like our vacations to be laid back, quiet and romantic.
Eleni Gage: No, it won't be difficult at all. Most people on Santorini speak English! If you want a quiet companion island in the Cyclades, Folegandros is great. Or if you want to try another island group, Hydra is very romantic and close to Athens, and Corfu town is also so romantic. There is a windmill on Zakynthos (in the Ionian islands) that is a very romantic place to stay, on a cape above the Blue Caves. Go to potamitisbrothers.gr and click on Windmills accomodations. Fewer people speak English there, but you still shouldn't have a problem at all, as there is usually someone around who does.
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New Market, Maryland: Hello again!
We've been studying guidebooks about the Islands, but we're still having trouble deciding which one(s) we'd prefer for our trip next April/May. We're looking for a quiet island with history, hiking, good beaches, and opportunities to get to know the locals. We're not really interested in nightlife or upscale shopping and restaurants. Do you have some recommendations?
Eleni Gage: I do! Cephallonia is great because it's large, so it never feels crowded, and it is rich in history and has amazing beaches. (And you'd be near to Zakynthos and could easily visit there as well). A nice place to stay on Cephallonia, with English speaking owners who would be able to offer advice is garbisvillas.gr, and a lovely place on Zakynthos is potamitisbrothers.gr--in both places the owners could help you mix with locals. Crete has great hiking (the Samaria Gorge). Kythera is very quiet and has lovely beaches, ruined Venetian fortresses, and well preserved medeival villages (also very good hiking, and a significant web presence because so many Kytherans emigrated to Australia and they tend to return each summer. If you chose any one of those I don't think you'd go wrong.
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Seattle, WA: My husband and I are celebrating our 25th aniversarry with a 10-day trip to Athens, Santorini and Mykonos in mid September. We will be in each location for three days. Gate One Travel, who we purchased the trip through, also offers quite a few of the typical sightseeing options, or we could rent a moped and go off on our own. What are your don't-miss recommendations for each location? I am especially interested in rubbing elbows with the locals and enjoying the true Greek culture. How do a fifty-something couple get the most out of the Greek Islands?
Eleni Gage: A great way to get know locals is to go to a festival--you can check out a list of them at gogreece.about.com. Have dinner late, like the locals do, pop into churches at any time, the way they do, and go to the main square in each town, find the kafenion, which will be full of old men playing backgammon and have a cafe frappe. You'll be surrounded by locals! On Santorini, see (and/or stay in Oia--it's beautiful!) Akrotiri is cool as an archaeological site, but was closed after a recent accident, if it's open, do go. And I think it would be a good idea to rent a moped (if you're not too chicken--I am) and ride into some of the interior villages--see if any are having a wine festival, maybe. On Mykonos, wander the town, see the windmills, watch the sunset from a cafe on Little Venice (I like Galleria but they all have great views), and for a quiet beach and great taverna go to Agios Sostis--you'll need to take a cab. In Athens, wander the pedestrian walkway (called Apostolou Pavlou) and the cafes along the Roman forum and the train station to the right of the Monastiraki metro station--there are always locals there. The Central market is chaotic but full of locals doing their shopping! Congratulations on your anniversary! I hope your trip will be one of the highlights of your marriage. (And September is a great time to go!)
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Golden, CO: My husband and I have been wanting to go to the Greek Isles for a few years. We would like to go during the "low" season to avoid crowds, but still would like to enjoy nice (sunny, warm) weather. What time of year do you suggest we go?
Eleni Gage: The absolute best times are mid-May and late September/early October, but late September is great, too. The weather will be lovely and everyplace will be less crowded (and less expensive; prices fall after Sept. 15 in most places). Another idea would be to go at the tail end of August to see some of the celebrations of Greek Easter (it's April 27th next year)
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Memphis, TN: My husband and I (64 and 56) are considering the Greek islands for late September 2007. We love to swim - would the Aegean sea still be warm enough for swimming at that time? And if so, which islands might be best for that (i.e. not those with rocky coaslines).
Thanks!
Juliet
Eleni Gage: The water will definitely be warm enough and that's a great time to go. The best beaches are on Cephallonia, Lefkada (Porto Katsiki), Zakynthos--those are all in the Ionian; Elafonissos and Kythera off the coast of the Peloponnese, and some of the Cycladic islands, like Mykonos also have great beaches.
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Eleni Gage: I've really enjoyed answering your questions. If you wrote a question I didn't get a chance to answer, please accept my apologies, and check out the answers I did get to write--in many cases, some of the information you requested will be in those. I wish you all happy travels and amazing trips that will leave you loving Greece as much as I do!
All best,
Eleni
Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.