ROAD TRIP: MARYLAND'S EASTERN SHORE

Crabby in a Good Way

On Maryland's Eastern Shore, the fun doesn't stop when the road ends--there's usually a ferry bound for more crab shacks and woodsy landscapes.

The sleepy village of Whitehaven, best seen by bike (Justin Steele)

DAY 1
The entrance to Maryland's Eastern Shore is hard to miss. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge, a four-and-a-half-mile marvel that spans the bay's northern end, connects the state's eastern half to Annapolis and points west. There's a portion of the bridge that dips so low that my friend Kathie and I seriously think for a split second that we're about to become one with the bay.

Five miles east of the bridge is Holly's Restaurant, a wood-paneled, family-run diner that's been serving locals and passersby for 52 years. I spy scrapple on the menu, and Kathie flashes a daring smile. The brown blob--a mush of cornmeal and pork scraps--arrives so sizzling hot it shakes on the plate. I look up at our waitress, dismayed. "Honey," she jokes, "your whole-wheat toast is about the healthiest thing you're going to get in this place."

Refueled with grease and caffeine, we hit the road, keeping an eye out for any intriguing stops. A few miles along, we veer right onto a local street and discover Old Wye Mill, billed as the state's oldest working mill. No other visitors are around, so we get a private tour of the one-room, 325-year-old gristmill and hear the brief history of the town that used to thrive around it. Now it's just a few houses and the stump of what was supposedly Maryland's oldest tree; lightning took it down a few years ago.

Snaking south on various scenic byways, we learn that while the area's crabs are world famous, the Eastern Shore is really for the birds. Perdue trucks barrel by, hauling feed to chicken farms. All sorts of birds are constantly darting across and along the narrow roadway.

Then there's The Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art. In an unexpected modernist building, the peculiar museum is devoted to hunters' decoys. "I like that the carvers call themselves wildlife counterfeiters," Kathie says. One exhibit re-creates the wood shop of Lem and Steve Ward, local brothers (and the museum's namesakes) who pioneered the craft as an art form in the 1930s. Another room is devoted to decoys as art. The $28,000 price tag of one hulking, abstract piece leaves me blinking. I snag a stuffed toy bird--Tufted Titmouse, the tag reads--from the gift shop. We dub him Teddy and perch him on the dashboard.

Lisa, an old friend living nearby who will meet us for dinner later, tipped us off to the Salisbury Zoo. The sanctuary was created in the 1950s when folks began dropping off birds, deer, and other animals in the surrounding park. We stroll past monkeys, ocelots, and a pack of llamas soaking in a pond. A group of flamingos stand so still we think they're fake at first. Kids tromp around and squeal at a capybara, the world's largest rodent, which whistles and barks in return. Two river otters, Hurricane Katrina refugees, splash about in a pool. "Look, it's otter men!" says a young girl. "Get it? Ottoman?" Kathie and I exchange impressed looks.

During its 197-year life, the Whitehaven Hotel, our B&B for the night, has housed a general store, a post office, a saloon, and a private residence. The wraparound porch looks out onto the Wicomico River and a small three-car ferry. Innkeeper Cindy Curran shows us to our cozy ground-floor room and points out the sealed door along one wall, explaining that it was used during the hotel's speakeasy days. We borrow bikes and take a quick trip around town, which consists of 30 or so houses surrounded by marshy fields.

The bird theme continues at The Red Roost restaurant. The airy all-you-can-eat joint is a renovated chicken coop deep in the woods, decorated with tin roosters on the walls and crab-bushel-basket chandeliers. Rolls of paper towels and plastic garbage cans bookend communal tables covered in brown paper. "I almost had my wedding rehearsal dinner here," says Lisa with a laugh. "But they were closed because it wasn't crab hunting season." Stuffed on onion rings and snow crabs, Kathie and I return to Whitehaven and lie on the hotel's small dock, drinking wine and stargazing.

Lodging

Food

  • Holly's Restaurant 108 Jackson Creek Rd., Grasonville, 410/827-8711, hollysrest.com
  • The Red Roost 2670 Clara Rd., Whitehaven, 410/546-5443, theredroost.com, chicken-and-crab platter $18

Activities


  • Old Wye Mill14296 Old Wye Mills Rd., 410/827-3850, $2
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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I try to avoid checking any luggage, but the airlines are getting stricter every day about the size and weight of carry-ons. So when I pack, I put any important stuff in a plastic bag and place it in a front pocket. If I'm told to check my carry-on when I get to the gate, I can just pull out the smaller bag and board.

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When I travel for business, I usually tack on a few extra days to do something active like hike in a nearby national park. I find that by taking two small suitcases instead of a single large one, I stay better organized and less burdened. I keep my business clothes, papers, and laptop in one bag and hiking clothes and gear in another. I leave the suitcase I'm not using at the time in the rental car and easily carry the lightweight case with the equipment and clothes I need into my hotel.

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If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

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Going to a place where you don't speak the language? Take along a picture booklet filled with examples of common food items (chicken, cow, rice, bottled water, coffee, wine, etc.) and use it to find dishes you like—you only have to point to the picture of what you want. We did this during a recent trip to Asia and always had wonderful meals.

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I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

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Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

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The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

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Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

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Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

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