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As we roll into Guavate, it's easy to see why the small mountain town is known for its roast pig. The main drag is lined with restaurants proudly displaying pigs roasting on spits. We choose El Rancho Original, an open-air, cafeteria-style restaurant that roasts at least two pigs a day. We order plates of the house specialty, rice and beans, and fried plantains, then grab a seat at a shady picnic table on the porch.

It's 50 miles to Ponce, so after lunch we get on fast-moving Highway 52. Our first stop in Ponce, a bustling city, is the Ponce Museum of Art. With more than 3,000 pieces, including an important collection of Pre-Raphaelite works, the museum is a refreshing surprise, literally: The air-conditioning is as enjoyable as what's hanging on the walls.

La Mina Falls, in El Yunque National Forest (Joshua Cogan) PUERTO RICO REVEALED View Joshua Cogan's gorgeous photos of beaches and back roads throughout the island. • Launch the slide show

Later that day we check into the Hotel Meliá, a 73-room inn in the heart of the city's historic zone; our room has a balcony overlooking the main plaza. For dinner, the receptionist recommends Pito's Seafood, about four miles southwest. It's a romantic spot right on the water, and as we dine on fresh cobia, we can't help but lament the absence of our significant others.

Josh and I skip a sit-down dessert in favor of King's Cream, a popular ice-cream shop located on the ground floor of our hotel. At 9:30 p.m., the line is out the door. We eventually order cones of guanábana (soursop) and stroll around Las Delicias Plaza.

Lodging

• Hotel Meliá Calle Cristina, Ponce, 787/842-0260, hotelmeliapr.com, from $95

Food

• El Rancho Original Rte. 184, Guavate, 787/747-7296, pig plate $7
• Pito's Seafood Rte. 2, Ponce, 787/841-4977, cobia $22
• King's Cream Calle Cristina, Ponce, 787/843-8520

Activities

• Santuario Diocesano Virgen del Carmen Rte. 7740, San Lorenzo, 787/736-5750, free


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Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.